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21 de jan de 2018

Manos Gerakinis Imortelle, Pivoine - Fragrance Reviews




It is interesting when you find a new-comer brand such as Manos Gerakinis able to hit so precisely the creation of a collection of luxury perfumes that can have a wider appeal while retaining an aura of distinction. It is not an easy task, since it is one thing to make a more popular luxe, another is to make a risky and different one and, in this case, doing both well is not for anyone.
If the Sillage trilogy focuses on performance without losing sight of the personality of the composition, the pair Parfums de Jour looks at the versatility with the same feature. The purpose of the collection is to create deep fragrances with sophisticated notes that can be used from day to night and in any season.
Considering this purpose, it was a surprise to see a perfume based on Imortelle, a plant whose extraction of essential oil / absolute produces an aroma so powerful and striking that when used in a composition tends to stand out and dominate it easily. It is not exactly the kind of inspiration that could be called versatile, but Imortelle finds a way of framing the note in a composition that is exotic without being stifling, soft in a way that despite having a more nocturnal aura looks well to daytime use after the first few minutes go by. The Imortelle has a nuance of burnt sugar that is put in evidence at the opening, an intelligent association with, I believe, Ethil Maltol, giving a roasted gourmand touch that sounds distinct and well-balanced. In the background, there is a contrast between hot and cold spices and a lactonic note that creates the illusion of a chai aroma. It quickly softens to a woody base with nuances of musks and sweetened resins and at that point you can perceive the the hay-dry and woody nuances that is dominant in the evergreen.
Pivoine goes conceptually in a totally opposite sense to Imortelle. The peony is usually a flower that I do not appreciate in perfumery because the synthetics that are used to retracts it give me the sensation of functional perfumery products. This also contributed to the impression that its scent is not outstanding enough to face nighttime wear, lacking a more bold presence. Manos does an excellent job at taking the peony out of its common place and making it sensual and versatile. The perfume has a wealth of nuances that is unusual when the composition focuses on this flower. The Peony here is portrayed with the slightly fruity floral freshness that is familiar to those who expect this theme. But the secret lies, just as in Imortelle, in the nuances of composition. There is a delicious fruity and floral scent that reminisces to wine with a lightweight acquatic floralcy that gives the flower an interesting shine. In the background, a sophisticated and adult jasmine imparts a robust aroma to the theme without stealing the attention of the Peony. The base in the composition is minimal, with a velvety touch that sustains the flowers and what impresses is that the opening and the evolution end up sustaining very well and maintaining a fresh, sensual and complex aura for a long time. It is a perfume that tends a little more to the feminine and that just as Imortelle has an impeccable execution.