29 de abr. de 2019

DSH Perfumes Metropolis - English Review


Metropolis is part of the Avant Garde collection room of the huge mansion which is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Portfolio. The endless creative perfumer finds inspiration here in the cityscape, proposing an idea made mixing elements of a sharp and cool modern city with a touch of the natural world. It's made to be a modern, minimalist and urban chic fragrance it's aroma and title makes my mind go into the 1927 german film of the same name, Metropolis, and fit the fragrance as a kind of inspiration to the film, more an expressionism aroma than a minimalist one that seems to look at the future through the lens of that era.

Maybe due what i see and expect here Metropolis doesn't seem to me exactly modern as 2019, but it certainly would be a very futuristic and modern masculine creation if launched at 1927, considering that chypres were still feminine at that time. Metropolis seems to be a kind of bitter, leather, fougere chypre, a creature that makes me think of an intersection between Balmain Ebene, Lancome Sagamore and Lauder Knowing. Something it has in common with all those three: a tough and bitter mossy-patchouli aura.

This is the sharp and cool way that Dawn sees the city meets the nature. Metropolis has that overdone impression that 80's fragrances has and as the city, it's mossy aroma is huge, like a patchouli and moss skyscraper. It's decorated by bitter herbs and a geranium playing the fougere part, and altough i don't see lavender listed something makes me think of it. The rose seems to be here to remind us of the nature part, together with the sandalwood, which gives a gentler woody impression. The Black Leather accord seems to remain on the background, lurking like either a misfit or a savage creature. It seems to be synthetic and incorporate animalic elements, like a creature that lives in the city but hasn't lost its animal heart. For me it seems that you have to position it in the right timeframe to understand it's modern approach. Taking that apart it's a high quality mossy-fougere (or aromatic chypre according the way you see it) for the ones that miss the classics from the past.