13 de mai. de 2019

DSH Perfumes Figue Interdite, Summer Cologne, Musc Eau Natural - English Reviews




I have noticed that somehow in Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has been working on what I see at this moment at three diferent styles of compositions. In one of them she still flexes here excellent talent for vintage-like creations, in another she seems to be diving deep on animalic compositions and there is a third one where she seems to go towards an uncomplicated style of fragrance. They sound modern due this minimalist approach, but still it's not your average mainstream minimalist fragrance because the perfumer use both top materials and her years of experience to produce fragrances that anyone can enjoy but that don't seem to follow the laziest patch of filling them with musks. It's the common denominator that the three selected fragrances of this review have and i'll talk about them briefly bellow.

Figue Interdite: this might be the most complex of the three creations but still it flows very straightfoward as a green, milky and succulent fig creation. The challenge was to create an all-botanical fig, which is certainly hard since one of the main materials used to recreate the fig aroma is synthetic, the molecule called stemone. But Dawn does an impressionist trick and capture by all natural materials a lushious fig aroma, even capture the velvet texture of the fig skin! There is that contradiction of green and succulency in a ripe fig that is perfectly executed here and the scent extends it very well by creating a complex woody base that puts the lactonic and coconut aspect of sandalwood in its center. It smells certainly sexy, but not sexy in a porn-like way, more sexy in an innocent fashion.

Summer Cologne: just like Figue Interdite this is an all botanical creation, and there is also a challenge here as well. Dawn goes for an eau de cologne structure that avoid your typical citrus/petitgrain soul and instead opts for a green and leafy cologne creation. The final result is a sparkling and refreshing idea that has a very green opening, just like fresh cut grass. The use of tomato leaf and galbanum here reminds me of Sisley Eau de Campagne, but while Sisley seems to have a more leguminous nuance Summer Cologne focus on grassy nuances, fill it with a green citrus impression, add some flowers for a sensual touch and finish in a quiet woody base that returns part of the grass theme with the use of vetiver in its base. It is a scent that seems to disappear after the first hour and then emmanate ocassionally as the day goes by.

Musc Eau Natural: i would say that from the trio of minimalist and botanical creations this the most challenging one. It's hard to create a natural fragrance with a musk theme and even harder to do it without going for musk tincture or for civet or even castoreum to allude the animalic qualities of musk. Instead Dawn opts just like in Figue Interdite for an abstract capture of the musk textures. The trick is of a wizard one,since several materials with subtle animalic and velvety nuances are used together to produce it. Two of the top naturals with musk molecules are used here, angelica and ambrette seeds, and costus, cumin and oud fits the animalic part of the idea. The beeswax with the labdanum also fit the driest nuances of a natural musk, completing the overall experience. I would say that this for me seems like a fluid take on a similar idea found in Kiehls original musk, but without any strong fecal notes that might scare anyone. It also seems a little bit linear, only showing its nuances some hours after applied. It seems like a perfect musky base to layer or amplify other scents.