6 de mai de 2019

DSH Perfumes Le Smoking - English Review



When i'm reviewing fragrances from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz there is a part of me that gets worried about not being rigorous to them as i would with other brands. This happens because Dawn has become a friend for me, someone that i love and truly respect. But then, when i smell her creations like Le Smoking I feel the same exhilaration i felt when i discovered her a few years ago, before even knowing her. It's that sense of excitation you get when you are smelling a rich symphony preserved intact.

Le Smoking is part of a series the perfumer made in collaboration with the Denver Art Museum paying a homage to the Ysl Career and iconic pieces created throughout it. Le Smoking is made to celebrate the iconic Tuxedo, a typical masculine piece made feminine, so Dawn here tried to celebrate a gender bender fragrance and picked a chypre tobacco structure. To add something transgressive this is not only a tobacco fragrance but one with a Marijuana cigarette accord as well.

When you apply Le Smoking on skin and smell the first minutes it's like going back into the time with a certain sophistication that is mostly gone now. The first minutes of Smoking give me an intense animalic-green-bitter galbanum accord that instantly reminds me of two classics, Robert Piguet Bandit and Balmain Vent Vert. While Smoking is not a literal representation of them, it's like Banid and Vent Vert had a child that inherited nuances and the same boldness of both - which makes sense since the perfumer that created both, Germaine Cellier, was all about transgression, gender-bending and flipping genres inside of a perfume.

The idea of the marijuana cigarette accord is clever, since it fits perfectly the intense green nuances of the galbanum. Le Smoking starts to differ from vintage fragrances from the moment a smoky incense starts to kick in, combining with the mossy aspects of a chypre structure in a way that the drydown seems different from what you would expect from a vintage fragrance from the past, creating an alluring aura of tobacco, incense and green facets. It's a scent that leaves its sillage on the environment and draws the attention of people the same way that a Tuxedo on a beautiful woman would do. There is a perfection in design and execution that makes me really happy to sense and makes me feel really proud of knowing a perfumer so talented and that gift us with things like this. I cannot hide my love for Dawn because she truly deserves it.