3 de mai de 2019

DSH Perfumes Megaleion - English Review



We are again in territories were Dawn Spencer Hurwitz easily shines, vintage and retro style. But here she goes way back in time in what might be one of the first designer fragrances made in the world. Megaleion is a Dawn study of a fragrance named either for its inventor, Megalus, or a city near Syracuse, Megale, and its name means great. It was something costly and made of the best fragrances of its era. For a 2010 museum exhibition Dawn created a first version and she now sells a second one, made to be more modern and incorporate a givaudan agarwood base (i presume) called black agar.

Megaleion is a little bit deceptive at first on skin, maybe because it's resinous nature takes time to warm and develop the nuances. The voile de parfum concentration end working very well as a modern primitive fragrance since the oily nature of this version makes the fragrance almost work as a very fragrant ointment, just like i imagine a primitive fragrance being made before the invention of alcoholic fragrances. It also seems very primitive because at the same time it possesses a brown and sweet aura it seems devoid of a structured evolution. At the same time it's not a musky or dry woody block as modern fragrances do.

Compositions that relies solely on things like labdanum, benjoin, myrrh and other balms are tricky. Those are classic aromas, very fragrant, complex and warming, but they tend to create a thick fragrance that creates a similar base to every fragrance that uses them. Megaleion is successful in capturing the complex, ancient and rich aura of those resins without smelling common. It manages to do this by suggesting a kind of fragrant texture instead of giving you fragrant notes you can detect. It starts with a delicate, and gentle impression, something baby-like almost, which quickly gives you a delicate spicy aroma. Then the resins and incense kind of lit on skin and start to create a dark and incense aura with textures of ancient vanilla, caramel, dark honey, incense and woods. If you have already smelled black agar base you will recognize it's warm, sweet cinnamon oud texture very well used at the end of the fragrance, doing a bridge between ancient perfumery and modern one.

The way Megaleion works on skin also seems perfect for layering other scents over it and making them last longer in its slow paced resinous aura. It certainly smells rich and primitive, but at the same time makes me remember that many aromas that lured us in ancient times still do the same thing today. Their smells are timeless and a good perfumer of today is just like the alchemist perfumers of the past, creating scented magic with those nature precious essences.