2 de mai. de 2019

DSH Perfumes Parfum de Grasse - English Review




A person that has already tried a few of DSH Perfumes will notice her devotion to classic perfumery. Dawn over the years has mastered the vintage and retro style and it's part of her essence, being very skillful in creating the harmonies and complexity that makes vintage fragrances so alluring. So it's not a surprise that in Parfum de Grasse she decides to honour with one of her retro-like creations the city that is known to be the cradle of French perfumery, one of the most important places for the vintage style which is part of her.

I expected Parfum de Grasse to be something of a mossy chypre in the veins of Coty Chypre or a classic animalic leather, but Parfum de Grasse is more about the beautiful and rich flowers that are cultivated there to become the precious absolutes that go into the finest fragrances. It's an abstract bouquet that combines two flowers that are stars in the perfumery, rose and jasmine, and one that is rich in its aroma but seldom used in its natural form, mimosa. I believe the intention here was to capture their scents combined in the wind as if Grasse was welcoming you with the nobility of its flowers.

Mimosa is quite tricky in it's natural form, having a scent that is kind of almond but with a flower waxy and buttery nuance that makes it quiet, muting quite easily its aroma inside a composition. Here the flower seems to be the first one to greet you on skin, its aformentioned nuances supported by discreet spicy (maybe by the carnation flower) and citrus nuances. It morphs quite gently into the jasmine, which is devoid of it's fruity aspect and smells more waxy and buttery as well. The rose contributes with a green and grassy nuance, wrapping the flower bouquet around yellow, white and green nuances.

When the scent goes into the drydown it turns into a sophisticated mossy and wood aroma. The buttery impression continues with the sandalwood, the vetiver support the green nuances, the moss helps to give a gentle chypre sensation and the benzoin completes by giving a discreet resinous sweetness. It's a cozy aroma, more intimate and one that honours the cradle of French perfumery by using its best products with a classic elegance. I believe this fragrance is perfect for spring moments with its beautiful bouquet of flowers.