29 de mai de 2019

Le Male Essence de Parfum - English Review



Concept: 4.5                                                        Olfactive  Cohesion: 4
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 4           Presentation: 4.7
Final Note: 4.2                                                     Note in the Price Range: 4.2
Price Range: 2 - 50 to 100 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent

Le Male is one of those perfumes that has an uncommon feature: after 2 decades of existence it is still modern and has not become outdated. I believe it helps the fact that when it was released its fougere aroma was a mixture of nostalgic and modern, a characteristic that is very present in the current moment of the perfumery. Its sales success is such that in the masculine segment no matter how much Jean Paul Gaultier tries to create new fragrances (like Fleur de Male or Kokorico) none of them can become a sales success like Le Male, which has taken the brand then to a strategy of creating flankers bringing variations in its aroma.

Launched in 2016, the Essence de Parfum flanker aims to bring a new touch of sophistication to the original creation and in a way it is much more successful in the goal that the flanker Ultramale launched in 2015 had, that in the 20 years of commemoration of the Le Male's release tried to bring a reinterpretation and improved version of Le Male. This flanker does just that, keep the Lavender fougere axis from the traditional and bring it to the present moment making an improvement by adding more complexity to the idea.

While the classic Le Male is a Lavender Fougere that is torn between a retro scent of barbershop and a modern lavender dipped in soft musks and vanilla the Essence version of Parfum fits the Lavender's fougere axis from the original to a more oriental and spicy side, one that brings nuances of cinnamon, coumarin and cardamom. It is intriguing, however, that the perfume uses a scent of leather into the opening of the composition instead of putting it as a hear or base note, something that is not common.

The perfume opens with a more rustic aroma of leather accompanying a dry amber nuance  that is usually present in most modern perfumes and when abused gives performance to the perfume but takes away its identity and smothers more delicate aromas. Here, however, in the proportions used both the more rustic scent of leather and the amber aroma remain in the initial moments and soon open space for lavender. As it is in a more oriental context it loses part of the medicinal aspect and has its sweetened side highlighted and accompanied by a blend of cardamom, cinnamon and coumarin.

This mixture of spices reminds indirectly of Spicebomb, however it is a similarity that does not take away the identity of Le Male, since the perfume goes to its classic way of musks and in that final moment the leather resurfaces, but in a more discreet way, without the prominence it has on the opening. The last phase of the composition could be more risky, bringing thea more animalic costus touch, however the brand opted for a more commercial and safe way.

Overall the Essence de Parfum fulfills very well its purpose of being a more sophisticated version of Le Maleand manages to bring enough differences to support itself as something different. In a way, we are still in the field of original creation, the aroma of a barbershop. The difference is that Essence de Parfum is the ambiance of a modern barbershop, one which has a pool table, beer and a more stylish decoration. It is a very well made commercial perfume.