4 de jun de 2019

Parfums de Marly Percival - English Review


Concept: 2.5                                                        Olfactive  Cohesion: 3
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 3           Presentation: 4.5
Final Note: 2.9                                                    Note in the Price Range: 2.5
Price Range: 4 - 200 to 300 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent

Imagine that you go to a restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine, for example, and you feel unsatisfied that the establishment does not have fast food options on the menu. The restaurant scared of losing the clientele goes and offers just what you want, charging you the same price as the other dishes and breaking all the consistency of its concept, just to not lose profit. Brands like Parfums de Marly has been launching things like  Percival that are just that, luxury-priced fast-food options on menus that should be selected and different from what you consume in fast-food. Not to lose any sales opportunity such brands have treated their customers as spoiled children and given them everything they ask for when they have tantrums to get get what they want. They do not realize though that this is damaging to themselves and so they may be also creating little monsters.

If in the best perfumes of Marly there is already a more commercial aspect than many brands Percival lowers even more the level. As in other creations, there is little work to explain why Percival has the name it has, and it is not clear whether the tribute is to a knight of the roundtable or the name of a contemporary racehorse. If the concept is treated like whatever why  use it? This mediocre approach is what is expected of a massmarket perfume, not a niche scent.

From the olfactory point of view, Percival makes sense until some extent. It is described as fresh, strong, sensual and refined. Strong yes, fresh certainly, sensual depends a lot on the olfactory preferences, but certainly for the mass is a refined scent. Now sexy? It goes very far. Percival is like a commercial perfume blender, it seems to remember everything at the same time without fixing on anything. A person can get references of an allure blanche in a certain citrus aspect, at other times it seems that the perfume goes more in a fresh amber direction like invictus. When the perfume begins to evolve its base seems a variation of the mineral woody idea present in the abercrombie first perfume.

Note that these perfumes generally cost 1/3 of what Percival costs and Parfums de Marly creation does not deliver 3x more than they do. The Olfactory is just ok, nothing too much, and the technical aspect is just  average, performance ok and sillage ok. Percival is what happens when the industry, whether niche or commercial, has no interest whatsoever in olfactory education of its consumers and yields to any of their wills. It's a cynical commercial creation, a gourmet burger that costs 3x more with the same quality as others, only you pay for a (supposed) experience. Certainly Percival makes other branded commercial creations look like perfumery works of art, it is really mediocre.