17 de jun. de 2019

Zoologist Perfumes Chameleon - English Review



Concept: 5                                                      Olfactive  Cohesion: 4.5
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 4      Presentation: 4.7
Final Note: 4                                                  Note in the Price Range: 4
Price Range: 3 - 100 to 200 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent

With Chameleon the brand Zoologist perfumes is back to the characteristics that makes it strong and unique amid perfumery in general. Again we have a concept elaborated in an unique and detailed way, seeking to explore particularities of the animal in question and the environment in which it lives. In the hands of the perfumer Daniel Pescio here we have a luxurious, tropical and relaxed representation of the Chameleon, producing a floral aroma centered on ylang and vanilla, two perfume materials that come from the same island where several species of chameleons, Madagascar.

At first the idea was that Chameleon personified in aromas the synaesthetic aspect of the colors that the Chameleons assume to blend into the environment where they are, but given the difficulty of reproducing this in a universal way the perfumer suggested the perspective of reflecting the predominant aromas of the environment where the chameleon lives, as if it were camouflaged aromatically to the exotic floral color scent of Madagascar.

The idea works very well and it becomes intriguing that ylang-ylang was chosen, since symbolically the flower is a chameleon of white flowers, having this ability to be used in its various extractions to reflect the other white flowers that it will be part of concept. In Chameleon ylang is the great star, with its fruity nuances, its exotic, camphorous and creamy floral aspect put in full evidence. There is clearly a more French style in an exotic way here, something that reminds me of = Chanel since the French brand uses the flower as an important part of its olfactory signature. The perfume also bears the same relaxed and warm tropical aura of L'Artisan's discontinued classic Vanilia, but with an emphasis on Ylang instead of vanilla.

The only drawback of how olfactory construction done is that Chameleon camouflages so well to the environment that as time passes on the skin it virtually disappears. The progression of the exotic floral aspect leads us to a woody scent with nuances of vanilla and coconut, one that ends up being too discreet in the skin. This creates a dynamic that puts all the personality and projection in the opening and heart of the perfume, which can make the nose not see the evolution or to disappoint who expects the same intensity hours later. It is what prevents Chameleon from being another masterpiece of the house, but certainly its tropical and colorful floral aroma is in full harmony with the concept and offers a more exotic elegance that stands out among the other perfumes of the house.