12 de jun de 2019

Zoologist Perfumes Dodo - English Review


Concept: 2                                                      Olfactive  Cohesion: 2.7
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 4      Presentation: 4.7
Final Note: 3                                               Note in the Price Range: 3
Price Range: 3 - 100 to 200 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent


Certainly Zoologist is one of the brands that in the current scenario I admire and I try to test all the releases. Victor Wong is an exception in this field by working his brand organically, with consistency and daring approach and something innovative that builds intense olfactory narratives even though this may cause strangeness in the consumer. At the same time, I admire the work of the perfumer chosen for the creation of Dodo. Joseph Delapp is a perfumer who stands out for exemplary work with natural perfumery and attars and for offering products like agarwood and ambergris in exceptional quality. So I see as frustrating and surprising the result that the collaboration of two bold and competent figures do in creating Dodo, which for Zoologist standards is at best medium.

One of the things I admire and highlight in the creative direction of Victor Wong is the meticulous care he has with the conceptualization of the animals that will inspire his perfumes, making the olfactory delivered useful to tell a deeper and more complex story . But in Dodo this conceptualization is shallow and the choice of the animal is practically a pretext and an attempt to fit it into purpose: the purpose here was to create a fougere and associate the dodos to the concept by means of an abstraction where these extinct and large birds who can not fly run through the forests of Mauritius, covered with fern leaves. The idea was also to associate the fougeres with something classic and extinct, like the birds that would represent them here. I would say in this particular case that Zoologist commits the same crime of commercial perfumery, which is to force a story and a concept just to fulfill a purpose, to have a fougere perfume on the brand. The problem is that neither the story is told nor the purpose is reached in this case.

It is a big myopia to see the classic fougere structure as something dated and extinct. Certainly the classic fougeres are no longer synonymous with young people, but perfumes such as Azarro and Polo Green show that not only the idea did not die as it has a consumer market until today. And if the exclusive and niche perfumery serves as a parameter, creations such as the relaunch of Fougere Royale, Chanel Boy and Tom Ford Fougere Platine show us that the Fougere not only did not die as it was renewed to be seen as a luxury olfactory family and not more like a cheap idea. The second defect in Dodo is to see it as a fougere: as it may be called a fougere a perfume where the earthy and mossy part does not stand out, where the coumarin aspect is not evident and where the dynamics of lavender and bergamot is nonexistent ?

Certainly Dodo by elimination could be seen as fougere, since in male perfumery the fougeres are flexible enough to accommodate anything that is not oriental, spicy, woody, citrus, animalic or even aromatic. The problem is that in this process the perfume comes up against an olfactory family that is in fact synonymous with extinct times and the golden age of perfumery: the animalic perfumes. And dodo seen as animalic in fact attempts a movement to unite the modern to the classic, as Joseph Delapp suggests in his interview to the Zoologist's website.

The problem is that Dodo does not unify these two parts and instead of exotic sounds strange and uncomfortable. In rality there are two perfumes here, glued to one another by superbonder and struggling to stand out. And this becomes even more evident on warmer days, where creation has caused me great strangeness and repulsion. In the heat the Dodo opening sounds cheap and artificial, referring to the aggressive, fresh, minty aroma of green grape in Jacques Bogart's Silver Scent perfume - the last thing I would expect to feel in an artistic and conceptually thought scent. In the cold, a half-mint aspect, fruity and citrus stands out from Dodo and seems a variation of the same idea presented in the first version of the Zoologist Panda - which also surprises me, since Panda was reformulated because it did not sell well; what is the point of insisting with a new release on something that has already been proven to not work?

When it passes this bizarre and uncomfortable opening the perfume turns into an animalic aroma where the talent of Joseph Lapp really begins to appear. It is at this stage that we can see that the perfumer explores what dominates very well and creates a velvety animalic texture with a discreet floral aspect. At first the salty, aquatic and oceanic aroma of the ambergris stand out and little by little an aroma of animalic musks appears, well balanced by not being very fecal or dirty and opening space so that a long and intricate woody base reveals itself, with space even to synthetic musks very well fitted at the end of evolution.

This construction of a freakshow in Dodo creates at first the sensation that the perfume does not last in the skin, because after exploding like a bird screaming at the top of its lungs the perfume is quieted in the predominance of musks and ambergris, but remains the whole day in the skin and creates a sensual aura that reveals itself as the body heats up. Seen as fougere Dodo is a big mistake and a bad idea. As animalic it would work very well if the opening were removed and a more aquatic and mainstream were constructed. Or maybe the ambergris aspect could serve as an allusion to the gray plumage of the bird and a more docile side could have been developed to symbolize an animal that comfortable in its life left to fly and fear predators. What is delivered goes far from that, with a perfume that only really relaxes after scaring everyone aggressively. As the brand really invests in its presentation, price of the formula and because the olfactory evolution makes sense Dodo is saved from being a perfume between the regular and the bad.