10 de jun. de 2019

Zoologist Perfumes T-Rex - English Review


Concept: 5                                                      Olfactive  Cohesion: 5
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 5      Presentation: 4.7
Final Note: 4.9                                                Note in the Price Range: 5
Price Range: 3 - 100 to 200 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent

Several things can be said about the whole work that Zoologist Perfumes have been developing, but one thing it is certainly not possible to be said is that the brand is tedious. In a market risk-averse to the death more focused on seducing consumers by concepts and bottles than by daring in the perfumes themselves the Zoologist creations automatically stand out as something different and well thought out, diverse and challenging. And the brand is one of the few that takes the meticulous work of not only giving voices to independent perfumers, but bring consumers into the journey that has been made to reach the final result. I would say that one of the brand's latest perfumes, T-Rex , is an example of excellence in this regard.

Sometimes I think there is a certain level of metalanguage in the creation of T-Rex. We live a point where the success of niche perfumery and its growth came as a flaming and intense meteor over the niche sector. If this certainly did not lead to the extinction of brands, it virtually annihilated boldness and creativity. The T in the T-Rex was cut out of the niche and what mostly remains is  the Rex - docile perfumes, soft, that 'shake' the tail for the consumer current predilections. But if in the history of the Earth the dinosaurs succumbed, the independent segment of the niche perfumery is still alive and revealing daring talents, that by not deeply knowing the industry machine end up following their creativity and surprising us with what dares to not conform.

Antônio Gardoni is one of those new talents, who became interested in perfumery by chance, since his first career is in Architecture. When he became interested in nature and plants, Antônio began to extract their scents and decided to go further, creating combinations that tried to find the balance between opposites and that unconsciously end up bringing a more classic and even crude perfumery. The raw and unmistakable aspect of his creations was a wise choice for what at first was born as a joke - the reproduction of what would be the smell of a Tyrannosaurus Rex.

It is worth emphasizing once again that T-Rex was not meant to be easy, so if bold or more artistic fragrances are not your thing be aware of this when you test it. T-Rex perfectly delivers Victor Wong's vision for perfume - something chaotic, primal, dangerous and noisy, with several prehistoric things happening at the same time. Think of an 80's composition style applied to a primal theme and you'll get a sense of how the perfume behaves.

In the skin T-Rex opens as chaotic and primal as its concept proposes and is a smoky and leather aroma so colossal that in fact it is as if it were a giant t-rex leather - crude and even scary at first. The aroma of the rectified birch tar is further amplified by a raw touch of black pepper and a smoky incense aura that permeates this first phase of the perfume. At the same time primal flowers develop in this hostile and intense environment - their floral nectar showing itself in a more aggressive than seductive way, a warm, humid and muffled floral scent that competes with the chaos of the environment to be noticed. Except for birch and pepper, the scent seems to capture the texture and the idea of ​​what a primal environment would be, instead of focusing on the details themselves.

As it evolves, T-Rex becomes something that despite being warm and even volcanic it shows itself more linear, simple and straight, with an agarwood base with spicy aspects of cinnamon and a sweet and warm amber aroma. It is certainly something that sounds more modern than primal, which makes me think - are we witnessing the journey of extinction of these dinosaurs in a collapsing world or an ironic reference to how much the niche brands went from the bold and artistic to the  acceptable mainstream? I would say the two readings are possible and as Antonio Gardoni mentions in his interview for the zoologist website people often add meanings to his work that he did not think at first but that still make sense.

One thing is sure, T-Rex is a masterpiece: it is a perfume that delivers head to toe the concept, which has an excellent performance, a bold olfactory aspect and a luxurious presentation for the price range. What is expected of a perfect score perfume is not merely to please the consumer with what he expects. It is to challenge you in some way and tell a story that makes you think. And this is the case.