23 de set. de 2019

Santi Burgas Eau Dadà - English Review


Concept: 10
Olfactory: 9
Performance: 9
Final Score: 9.3

Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 145 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

I confess that at first I looked at Eau Dadà without quite understanding what its message meant but when I reflected on the elements themselves I see that Santi Burgas delivered here one of the perfumes that best reflects the artistic nature of his white collection. This collection is meant to be like an elegant white canvas where the design exalts what goes inside the bottle and what fits into that bottle is meant to be something artistic and relevant to the present moment.

At first I looked at Eau Dadà and found it very traditional even for what I expected from a perfume inspired by Dadaism. But this is the smartest, most Dadaist part of this perfume: it subverts your expectations and you cannot fully and rationally evaluate it. Still, conceptually the perfume project as whole does something brilliant in terms of Dada, proposing an eighth manifesto of the movement, something that never existed, proposing an olfactory element to Dada, a perfume timeless manifest that has been lost in time. And by making you expect a disruptive scent, the perfume also subverts your expectation by delivering a very wearable aroma, a beautiful amber patchouli.

Perhaps the level of comfort or discomfort and subversion that Eau Dadà delivers will depend on how many perfumes you know; Certainly for the contemporary nose that knows only the commercial perfumes of recent years this will sound challenging. I see it as a personification of the hippie, transgressive look that patchouli had in the olfactory culture of the 1970s. Eau dadá proposes an earthy patchouli with a dark chocolate aroma and a dense metallic part. Surrounding this patchouli flourishes by the floral nuances, aspects of incense and an amber vanilla scent, something very classic and harmonious, complemented by a slight animalic oud touch.

Eau Dadà is a classic fragrance, a timeless aroma that will surely sound familiar to some, and to others it will sound very strange and different. It is hard to say how much each one will see of Eau Dadà's connection to the perfume with the idea itself, but I believe that is the main point of the concept. In terms of performance it is very good and delivers an excellent classic and dirtier but beautifully crafted patchouli perfume.