29 de set de 2019

Santi Burgas Egnaro, Flaming Red, ÔIKB, Eau Dadette - English Review



Egnaro
Concept: 9 Olfactory: 6,5 Performance: 9

Flaming Red
Concept: 9 Olfactory: 8 Performance: 10

ÔIKB
Concept: 10 Olfactory: 9 Performance: 10

Eau Dadette
Concept: 9 Olfactory: 8 Performance: 7

Final Score
Egnaro: 7,8
Flamming Red: 8,8
Ôkib: 9,5
Eau Dadette: 8

Criteria:

25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Performance
Official Price: 145-155 euros 100ml/20ml (Eau Dadette)

Cathegory: Niche

One positive feature that can be said from Santi Burgas White Collection is that they are not common perfumes the way niche perfumery has been operating. Aiming at creating the unexpected and breaking the rules, the final results of the collection range from medium and confusing (Miss Betty Vair) to an almost perfect execution between concept, olfactory and performance (Oud de Burgas, Eau Dada, Miss Betty Vair). Still, at no time are there tedious perfumes, these are creations that take you out of your comfort zone and make you think about what is being smelled, creations that defy certain rules and that if they were polished in their approach and smell would be perfect ones.

Egnaro

With a name that means orange in reverse, the Egnaro concept leads you to expect a classic eau de cologne-style citrus perfume, something that fits perfectly with the memory idea of ​​crossing the Mediterranean coast in one day of heat. There is probably a deliberate detachment between memory and delivered perfume, for as much as Egnaro is in fact a perfume centered around the scent of orange it is one of the strangest moments in the collection, blending a strong fecal and animalic impression of civet, musk and castoreum to the bitter citrus smell of orange. As you get used to the smell you can see another dissonance, the fresh and spicy aroma of ginger and anise that help give an unexpected freshness to the aroma of bitter orange. At first Egnaro is like a very vivid, intense memory, but as it evolves to the base it becomes something more comfortable, distant and behaved as soon as sandalwood and amber sustain the perfume in the final stage of composition. The idea is interesting and challenging indeed, but it does not seem to have been executed as well as possible and it does not tell you why the most challenging elements are here, what their role is with the proposed concept.

Flaming red

This is perhaps one of the most direct and easy to understand within the collection: the representation of the red-hot flame of intense, true love, one of those who override reason and connect directly with the field of emotions. Santi Burgas uses a classic symbol to represent this love, the rose, and combines it with something spiritual, modern and very commercial, a balanced a mix of animalic oud and synthetic woody amber. The unexpected and original touch here comes from the fruity passion fruit note that adds an exotic and slightly bitter fruity aspect that forms an interesting contrast to the fiery rose and animalic oud. The only drawback is that there is something about this fruity accord that reminds you of a cleaning product and that seems out of place in the composition. As soon as this first impression passes, the fruity touch of passion fruit fits in very well with the rose, oud and the amber aroma of the background. Flaming Red's performance is one of the best in the line, lasting long and creating a massive trail that accompanies you. A better worked opening would make the idea perfect.

ÔIKB

The best results from the white collection are achieved when Santiago Burgas honors his favorite creative movement, Dadaism, and when he successfully transgresses the rules of perfumery. ÔIKB brings together the best of both worlds themselves and by inspiring in Neo-Dadaist Yves Klein and in his poem that speaks of the deep, empty depth of blue the brand delivers a beautiful melancholy and classic aroma of iris, lavender, violet and heliotrope, putting a high dose of ambroxan to give a modern and diffusive aura to the composition. ÔIKB is very close to perfect, a little rough initially in its iris scent. As it evolves an elegant leather and a powdery and violet scent blend with the iris scent that lies between the powdery and earthy. There is a slight distant animalic touch that nicely complements the perfume as a whole and makes the smooth and luminous evolution more complex and interesting. Perhaps a berry fruit touch would have worked very well here, a blueberry and its blue tint would complement the proposed idea well. Yet ÔIKB is an elegant exercise in classical perfumery applied to a modern context.

Eau Dadette

Made in limited edition and with a handmade bottle Eau Dadette is certainly one of the brand's most exclusive perfumes and one of the most different, a modern creation made up of in the classic Arabic perfumery style, Attar. Santiago Burgas dedicates Eau Dadette to an unknown muse of Dadaism, Juliette Roche, and offers Eau Dadette to all unknown artists. Of all Santiago dadaist perfumes Eau Dadette's is certainly the most Dadaist, and its scent looks like a collection of intriguing and sometimes disconnected moments: a chocolate-raspberry scent, a white floral aroma with cherry and heliotrope, a a dirty animalic aroma mixed to a clean musk, a drier woody smell. Attar's composition makes these moments not to scream and suffocate but impairs evolution, making the idea seem to wear off after a few hours in the skin and becoming a musk without anything very intriguing. It is not very clear how this relates to Juliette Roche and the unknown artists, but I believe the encapsulation of various olfactory directions is like a combination of anonymous perfumes blended into one which is intriguing in itself.