29 de set de 2019

Santi Burgas Miss Betty Vair - English Review

Concept: 6
Olfactory: 6
Performance: 9

Final Score: 6.8

Criteria

25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 145 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

When proposing a collection free of artistic constraints and purely creative as Santiago Burgas does in the White Collection there is a risk of not being well understood in the message being proposed or of being unable to reach the full potential of an idea. There is a fine line between the bright and the bizarre, the confusing and the complex, and I have the impression that Miss Betty Vair's biggest problem is precisely being too close of this line.

When you read Miss Betty Vair's concept it is not clear what the purpose of the perfume is, but the impression I have is that the goal here is to transpose a purely masculine universe of woods and roots into a feminine aesthetic. Miss Betty Vair is even a play with the sound of the word Vetiver, where pronounced quickly it becomes Miss Vetiver. But there is no clear harmony or direction that this Miss Vetiver wants to follow, and it's like you had a perfume in a personality crunch that you don't know if it's male or female, vintage or modern, commercial or exclusive. And this chaos / freedom causes the message to be lost and not transmitted well.

This conceptual confusion to me reflects the olfactory construction and Miss Betty Vair, despite being made of excellent materials, seems like a collision between different ideas. There are times when its aroma makes you think of an animalic musk, at other times it looks like a commercial vetiver and at other times there is a green floral that makes me think of a chamomile and jasmine tea. Trying to come up with a feminine vetiver scent that explores different ideas Miss Betty Vair's besides shooting in various directions seems uncertain which way to go. In the end its aroma eventually evolves into a comfortable woody aroma, something that explore the vetiver's cut wood nuance and combines it with an aroma reminiscent of sandalwood and cedar. At this point, Miss Betty Vair seems to decide on a more traditional path, as if overcome by the rules in the idea itself.

It can be said that at least there is a boldness here to escape the commonplace of vetiver-centered perfumes, even as to how the contextualize a more floral side to the idea. Still, the absence of rules or a more critical / harsh approach makes the perfume here try to embrace the world and not be able to convey its message clearly. Miss Betty Vair's smile and attitude of joy and tears can be an emotional / depressive crisis rather than expressions of her sensitivity. Who knows why she smiles or cries. She is hardworking, but what is the purpose of her hard work? Miss Betty Vair is too confusing to explain to you.