24 de set. de 2019

Santi Burgas NYC New York City - English Review


Concept: 9.5
Olfactory: 9.5
Performance: 9
Final Score: 9.3

Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 120 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

From the 3 creations proposed inside the Primal Waters collection it is easy to overlook NYC as it is perhaps the most obvious of them: a modern eau de cologne fragrance. Yet that would be not to realize that NYC is a centerpiece in this trilogy and is probably the perfume that started this collection of primal waters celebrating the brand's 10 years at the same time it proposes an authorial perfumery that keeps an eye on the mainstream as well. And I would say that NYC is also a celebration of the partnership and friendship between Santiago Burgas and Rodrigo Flores Roux, the perfumer who has been a centerpiece for the brand since the beginning of the partnership in the Palyndrome collection.

This is a fragrance that the perfumer developed for himself and that marries very well with the idea of ​​an primal eau brought to the present moment, after all we are talking about a cologne citric structure that gains the details, longevity and projection that are possible only with high quality synthetics and bases. NYC acts as a kind of Givaudan business card that Rodrigo Flores Roux presents to us by believing in the artistic and commercial potential of Santiago Burgas. And so is born the most accessible yet artistic perfume of the brand.

When tested quickly, NYC looks like a typical cologne from this moment, something in the line of fragrances based on citrus flowers and fruits that are popularized in fragrances such as Neroli Portofino and Nio. However, if you pay attention to detail you realize that there is a nod to classical perfumery and a work in detail that is not common in this style of composition. Perhaps the only point NYC misses is that its classic cologne aura seems more linked to the European continent than to New York itself, but it is a adaptation made to fits the perfume into the ANT trilogy and honors the city where the perfumer lives

The perfume opens with the typical combination of citrus juiciness and luminosity of a good eau de cologne - at first I detect more neroli and bergamot dominating the composition. There is, however, a discreet tribute to the 70's perfumery and NYC seems to bring me a hedione and magnolia luminosity that immediately reminds me of the classic Diorella, as if it were a re-orchestration of something similar but without the aquatic aspect. There is something that reminds me of the 1970s and the hippie movement too with a slight green nuance that makes me think of fresh cannabis, a slightly smoky herbal aroma that seems to hide behind a citrus structure.

It is interesting that NYC seems to focus precisely on the intermediate stage of the composition and somehow the refreshing, juicy and floral citrus moment seems to last and remain evident about 5 hours after application, which is surprising. New nuances are unfolding, like a tangerine nuance for example, and the scent never loses its elegance, supported by musks and a light woody and rooty touch. NYC besides an abstract and pleasant scent seems to be a versatile and artistic one and  to have been made as the center of the trilogy to indicate that its scent can be combined with each other to create something more dynamic and personal. I would say that this is a hell of a gift from Rodrigo Flores for the brand and consumer and one that is worth being known even to those who are not fans of citrus.