24 de set de 2019

Santi Burgas Oud de Burgas - English Review

Concept: 10
Olfactory: 9
Performance: 10
Final Score: 9.5

Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 295 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

I would say that the first thing that draws your attention about this member of Santi Burgas's White Collection is the price itself, far higher than the others in the collection. With the rise of Oud perfumes and its ease in creating a luxurious and sophisticated aura many brands have come to charge more in creations with this theme simply because they sell well  without the cost of the formula reflecting what is delivered. But at such times it is necessary to be fair and to evaluate a perfume on its own merits, on the experience it delivers. And in that sense I would say that Oud de Burgas is even cheap for what its gives you in olfactory terms.

First of all, it should be noted that this is not a mainstream oud, nor is it an oud to worried about being mainstream at all. Santiago Burgas proposes here a creation that exalts the most primal facets of agarwood, that oily, animalic aspect that for some refers to horse stable (and to me motor oil). But Oud de Burgas proposes a balance of these facets with a woody aroma as noble as agarwood and using the earthy, grayest aspect of the iris root to reflect the serene and contemplative nature of the perfume.

One thing I would say that acts against and in favor of Oud de Burgas is its potency - although classified as an edp is practically an extract and even when diluted it loses no performance or beauty - I feared that its aroma would be too strong and decided to add some grain alcohol to part of the perfume in another sample. In doing so it seems that a little less concentrated its aroma opens and you can see its beautiful nuances: the oud's most oily and animalic aroma, the way it transitions to a medicinal and woody aspect of cypriol and gurjum balsam, the woody aroma of natural sandalwood, the most earthy and sober orris aspect.

All this becomes more noticeable with Oud de Burgas slightly diluted, highlighting the nobility of the materials that go in the formula and in fact evidencing that in fact this is not cheap at all to be done. If there are many ouds on the market don't actually deliver something that matches the price they charge, this is not the case. But beware, undiluted its aroma is very strong and even 1 or 2 sprays are already very intense.