23 de set. de 2019

Santi Burgas Torroela de Montgri - English Review


Concept: 9.5
Olfactory: 9.5
Performance: 9
Final Score: 9.3

Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 120 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

While being a 10-year celebration of the brand, the Primal Waters collection seems to reflect the future in which Santiago Burgas's brand will follow. With the Primal Waters collection, the brand seems to me to have found a good balance between creating a perfumery that seems artistic at the same it has a commercial refinement, something with which the most inexperienced consumer can identify, see value and not be scared at the same time. . It is not an easy task, but the artistic direction combined with the experience and execution of perfumer Rodrigo Flores Roux produces a very robust result that becomes even more attractive when looking at the positioned price range.

Torroela de Montgri is part of a trilogy called Primal Waters, where I see a desire of the brand to rescue a primitive and handcrafted perfumery at the same time it does it in a more polished/straightforward way (a reflection of this concept can be seen in the unique wooden lid that each bottle has versus clear, simple and straight bottle). Torroela de Montgri is a tribute from Santiago to his homeland and its richness and is a blend of aromatic herbs that while being a portrait of Torroella is also a homage of the herbal elixirs of ancient times.

The perfumer delivers a very interesting result here, something that seems to be on the border of a classic fougére and an aromatic wood. Rodrigo Flores Roux seems to make a kind of intersection of 3 perfumes that I wouldn't imagine together but which influences seem to me to be indirectly perceived here. Torroela de Montgri seems to inherit aromatic aspects of the timeless classic Fougere Royalae (rebuilt by Rodrigo Flores Roux in 2010), the 1970s classic Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and the modern vetiver and cypress classic Encre Noire. And by combining elements of each of them Torroela de Montgri evokes something timeless and yet unique and distinct.

What makes me think more about Encre Noire here is the dynamic between the more aromatic and dry aroma of cypress and the  mineral woody cedar profile, which could very well be seen as vetiver as well. This cedar-vetiver-cypress backbone is the woodier side of the composition that reminds me of Encre, but it is filled with more elements that make the perfume complex, bringing to the same context  a dry, incense fir balsam aroma. On the opening there is a quick eucalyptus impression, which gives a quick minty moment. It evolves into a combination of aromatic herbs and chamomile and the more herbal and medicinal side makes me think of a modernization of the same idea present in Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. At the same time, this almost fougere, green and aromatic side is also on the edge of what is in Fougere Royale and what differentiates is precisely the absence of moss, the lack of lavender proeminence and the use of this more modern aspect of the woody mineral base.

Torroela de Montgri delivers just what you expect, a perfume that boldly and masterfully uses timeless aromatic herbs and re-contextualizes them into a modern perfumery. Its style of evolution is between something more linear and layered and is an interesting hybrid and a great result for a creation that could have been something more cologne and common. The way it is built gives the idea a very good performance, with a refreshing and more intense opening and a very comfortable woody evolution. A pleasant surprise.