21 de out. de 2019

Hermetica Source 1 - English Review


Created by the same founders of Memo and Floraiku, Hermetica is a brand that comes up with some innovative ideas mainly from a technical standpoint but sells these ideas in a confusing way to the consumer. The concept of the brand is to sell molecular fragrances, and the way it is described there is a misleading idea that the brand is inovating by combining natural and synthetic materials - something that is older than modern perfumery itself. What is really challenging here is the production of environmentally conscious, alcohol-free perfumes.

Making perfumes without using alcohol is not as simple as it sounds - you take one of the best vehicles to ensure the evaporation of perfume on the skin and to ensure rapid absorption. Using Symrise's patented technology Memo's creators made a brand that if doesn't brand well it sustainability at least practice it as an integral part of the idea - choosing biodegradable and sustainable natural and synthetics, alcohol-free perfumes, recycled and refillable bottles, use of profits for the preservation of the environment. And in this new approach the brand looks at the past of perfumery in alchemy to propose a new language of representation and olfactory reading that is very interesting in its approach.

Source 1 is the perfume that started the Hermetic collection and is used as the basis for the composition of all other creations, being offered in isolation so that it can be used as a basis for other compositions. The non-alcoholic formulation in Source 1 is interesting because even though it is possible to identify the 3 different moments in it, it is possible to perceive them almost immediately, but without anything seeming heavy. This in itself is difficult as there are powerful synthetic materials playing the role of amber and wood in the formulation. Achieving this in a non-alcoholic formulation while still offering a non-sticky liquid that evolves like an alcoholic scent is quite a feat.

Each Hermetic perfume is said to interact differently with the user's skin and I believe that with this Symrise patent used here this is not just a myth but part of the technology employed. In my particular perception Source 1 doesn't just seem citrus to me, there is something fruity about it that is intriguing - bergamot in combination with the woody part and amber for a few moments creates the illusion of papaya aroma. Then I notice a woody part that in theory would be aggressive but here it is powerful and smooth at the same time.

There is something deep that seems to go almost in a leather direction, reminding me of a shiny, waxed leather, something almost touching a crayon aroma. It seems overall me as a wise choice to pick up on the '90s Zen-conscious, environmentally-conscious minimalism and a perfume that can appeal well to those who like linear and simple but well-made fragrances.