9 de out de 2019

Pk Perfumes Cuir Moderne - English Review


Concept: 9.5
Olfactory: 9.5
Performance: 9.5
Final Score: 9.5

Criteria:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Performance
Official Price: $ 55 15ml, $ 75 30ml, $ 115 60ml
Category: Artisanal/Indie Niche

It is interesting to read the story that perfumer Paul post puts on the page of Cuir Moderne because it shows how a creative concept can start at a certain point and evolves organically to another that at first had no direct relation to the starting point - as the case of an apricot liqueur and a leather perfume. Inspired by the succulent sweet aroma of the liqueur, the perfumer uses a realistic reproduction of the osmanthus flower aroma to produce an exotic scent of fruity, floral and modern leathery nuances. The secret of this inspiration lies right in the center of osmanthus, as the flower has fruity characteristics when fresh and acquires an oily leathery aroma when undergoing the distillation process.

I would say that even though Cuir Moderne does not immediately make you think of Osmanthus, it is a good interpretation of the subject, one that can strike a good balance between the floral and fruity aspect and the oily leather aroma. Cuir Moderne is also one of Paul Kiler's rounder, softer perfumes, perhaps not just rounder because of the modern leather theme that involves aroms of tobacco oud and a more artificial leather that gives it a plastic subtle nuance. Yet it is one of his fragrances that seems to evolve more languidly / sensually on the skin.

Cuir Moderne may even bring the scent of oud and woody amber to create a more modern leather aura, but it is still structured with complexity and a gradual pace of evolution that brings you closer to a modernization of classic leather. At first this strong and masculine aroma of leather reigns in the composition, but slowly you can see the apricot  liqueur aroma rounding and softening this opening. The most floral side of osmanthus appears on the skin amid a pleasant harmony of iris, orange and jasmine. The oily, leathery side of the osmanthus takes a long time to appear and is well balanced with the oriental part of the idea, resulting from the return of focus to the woody aroma of the opening. which gains more evidence in tobacco and patchouli to finalize the composition.

In terms of performance at first Cuir Moderne seems to be a little bit suffocating but the way the perfume harmonizes the more delicate and aggressive aspects of Osmanthus makes its aroma quickly comfortable while remaining noticeable during the day. Working on a theme that involves both abstract and realistic reproduction, Paul delivers one of his most enjoyable perfumes and does without sacrificing complexity.