11 de fev. de 2020

Olibere Paris Le Jardin de Madame Chan - English Review


At first Le Jardin de Madame Chan seemed to me like the black sheep of the family for not sharing the olfactory style of the others in the line and somehow looking displaced with the pastel theme in tones that the brand uses in this collection of rebel heroines. But it took just a little research about the film that inspires it, especially the aesthetics, for everything to make sense.

Le jardin de Madame Chan is inspired by the acclaimed 2001 film In the Mood For Love, a romantic drama that tells the story of a man and woman who move to a Chinese community in Hong Kong. Both are married but spend a lot of time alone, suspect that their partners cheat on them and build an intimate relationship from there. Le Jardin de Madame Chan portrays Su Li-zhene and her sophisticated, classic and sensual style in a mysterious way. The film is saturated in dark colors, reds and sophisticated patterns with classic prints and nothing less than an oriental could represent that.

And there is an oriental in question who seems to shout the name of the film with a familiar aesthetic, the first big modern best seller of perfumery, the Ysl Opium Pour Femme. Le Jardin de Madame Chan re imagines the spicy oriental structure trying to make it more direct, as if a middle ground was found between the opulence of the classic and the more pastel and luminous style of the collection. It is a marriage that works even if it does not seem at first.

The perfume already opens with a dose of incense, sweet resins and patchouli and the use of bergamot and coriander serves more to balance and bring a certain luminosity to this heavy and mysterious idea. Although cloves and cinnamon are not listed, they seem to be an integral part of the opulent floral accord where rose, ylang and jasmine produce something powerful, complex and narcotic just like in the YSL classic. In the evolution the perfume becomes more discreet, finding a certain comfort in the sweetness of the resins and in the woody aroma of sandalwood and patchouli.

Luca Maffei pays a beautiful tribute here, which fits like a glove in the proposal and delivers a variant of Opium that sounds more direct and modern but without compromising harmony. It is a pleasant surprise within Olibere brand, certainly one of its best perfumes.