28 de abr. de 2020

Jeroboam Insulo - Fragrance Review


It's interesting when a brand has a story and cares about telling it to their audience. It is something that is often lacking in modern perfumery, either niche, commercial or independent: a clear narrative that allows to contextualize what one feels, to understand the purpose of what has been developed. But being a brand owned by one of the most renowned perfume shops in Paris the care with this part that many don't worry about does not surprise me.

Created by François Hénin, founder of Jovoy, Jeroboam was born of a joke between François and the perfumer regarding the ability to feel musks. This led to the development of a kind of cocktail of musks, an olfactory signature that would define the brand conceptually later. It is interesting to choose musks as the basis for a luxurious brand of extracts. There is a misconception about them in modern perfumery by the abuse of some musks in close formulations of funcioinal perfumery. What Jeroboam seems to propose then is a risk, a rescue of the universal, enigmatic and luxurious aspect of the musks.

In Insulo this is modulated by the perfect choice for this purpose: vanilla. It is known that vanilla is a way of perceiving the effects of a musk when it is not possible to smell it, since there is a synergy between vanilla and musks. Insulo proposes a weapon of seduction around this idea and is precisely what it offers.

At first I had found its scent simple, feeling basically vanilla, musks and touches of a white floral with a slight citrus twinge to not leave the composition too flat. But Insulo slowly reveals itself in the skin, with the musks growing slowly and creating a warm, modern, velvety oriental aura. What I find interesting about this vanilla is that at the same time that it is sweetened it has a nuance of caramel that is never cloying or very sweet. And this nuance evolves into something that makes me think of benzoin and resins but without ever developing an amber weight. Insulo forms a kind of warm and intense aura of musks, which remains perceptible throughout its evolution, which is a challenge when it comes to musks compositions.

Because it is an experience that depends on a family of molecules that are perceived so differently by each person, Insulo is after all a personal experience and this is just my journey in relation to it. I would say that it is a winning product when you analyze proposal, concept, design, performance and cost-benefit. Worth trying.