22 de abr. de 2020

Lubin Korrigan, Akkad, Galaad - Fragrance Reviews


It is not just today that Lubin is inspired by the history of humankind and the legends of the past to create perfumes that have something to tell and are contemporary in their aroma. Although in the Aristia collection the brand ends up sinning a lot in positioning and in the perfumes delivered in 2012, they nailed it by expanding the classic and well-received Idole de Lubin in a multicultural collection, adding 3 perfumes in EDP concentration that were inspired by different civilizations and legends of the past. Korrigan, Akkad and Galaad tell different stories but are unified by the well balanced use of woods, resins and aromatic balms as old as the civilizations that are honored.

Korrigan is the perfume that has the most enigmatic history of the 3, starting from what are Celtic legends that can represent both fairies and gnomes or even beings similar to mermaids. In the narrative told by Lubin they are represented by a composition that involves the various elements that would be part of the legend that Lubin creates for them: an aromatic and spicy juniper opening, dry touches of cognac mixed with saffron and a rustic, woody base, slightly animalic where leather, cedar agarwood and vetiver create this more primitive aura. The generous use of musk in the composition ends up making it very close to the skin after a few hours, which is a little disappointing.

Akkad also ends up being a mild perfume, but with a longer lasting presence on the skin. Honoring the Akkadian Empire, the first Mesopotamian empire, Akkad would be inspired by the Sumerian goddess Ishtar and elements present in a precious balm that Lubin does not make clear whether or not it is also related to the goddess. Akkad's aura focuses on exploring the amber for its warm, dry aroma that refers to honey. This is done in such a way that the most difficult aspects are left at the opening, balanced by a citrus aroma that emanates an orange smell. Then the perfume shows an exotic harmony where the freshness of the cardamom is complemented by the fresh and resinous aroma of the elemi. The base reminds me of a slightly more resinous version of the same idea present in the Prada Amber Pour Homme, capturing amber from a more delicate and soft side.

For Galahad we leave Mesopotamia and head towards Egypt, focusing this time on myrrh, used in the famous balm of Gilead. Galaad is the one that captures the theme of resins that permeates the composition in a more intense and smoky way. The perfume highlights the subtle leather nuances that myrrh has and complements its resinous aura with an amber and slightly sweet agarwood. The perfume brings a more contemporary and French touch due to the presence of rosemary, which gives a dry and almost medicinal aromatic touch to the outlet. As Galaad evolves, it makes room for a more woody aroma and for a discreet use of smoked tobacco with nuances of honey. Of the 3 compositions, it sounds the most luxurious, enigmatic and primitive, seeming to capture the warm and arid aura of the desert.