22 de abr. de 2020

Lubin Upper Ten, Upper Ten Her - Fragrance Reviews


The French maison Lubin has been doing a good job of rescuing its historical heritage, bringing back names from its catalog of classics but giving them a new outfit. This is the case of the Upper Ten duo, which celebrates a perfume that Lubin made or launched for the American public inspired by a term created by an American poet to refer to the 10 thousand most influential people of New York. For the concept of perfume, the creative director of the brand mentions having conceived the masculine to be the perfume of the man who dares to be part of a select group of men who perfumes not to fit in the group, but to stand out, for the pleasure of being perfumed.

The perfume on the skin follows an interesting path and gives me the impression that the brand has focused on something that is different but that fits the preferences of the public where it sells well, in this case the American market. So, Upper Ten is a kind of controlled explosion of spices, an unusual freshness achieved by a balance between pink pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, juniper and saffron. Cardamom gives a fresh touch without being mentholic, pink pepper imparts a slightly fruity touch, cinnamon and clove a warmer spicy aura and juniper add a spicy impression with a dry herbal touch. Saffron helps to enhance the scent of leather and give it a light boozy nuance. The body of the perfume is discreet, maintains the freshness and gives a light floral citrus to the composition. The final part of the evolution is a woody aroma that revolves around sandalwood and cedar, and that curiously is discreet but at the same time seems to grow and create a woody aura with a light touch of leather at times, especially when the skin heats up. I think the brand did a good job at creating something sophisticated without being glaring and therefore something very versatile.

A year after the masculine version it was released Upper Ten For Her with the same proposal to celebrate what would be exclusivity in terms of fragrance and fit the taste of the American public. While the masculine version was successful, the feminine one seems to me to be strange. The perfume sits between being a spicy oriental and a not very sweet gourmand, but something in the combination passes a residual aroma with a chemical and burned aspect. The composition opens with similar notes of spice, but warmer and less fresh. Soon it appears a fruity liqueur touch and an artificial aroma of roses, that quickly mixes to the bitter chocolate gourmand aroma and to the half burned and artificial aroma that appears at the base The balance and versatility that was obtained in the male version ends up not being well transposed to the feminine, but in terms of performance and presence this version ends up being more prominent in the skin. As this kind of olfactory noise is not very intense it may be that its perception varies greatly from nose to nose, so it is worth testing it on the skin and draw your own conclusions.