29 de mai. de 2020

Café de Parfum Les Fleurs Rouges - Fragrance Review




One of the problems with going against expected and obvious interpretations of a gourmand theme is the danger of making the initial idea unrecognizable. It is a risk that Café de Parfum took when fleeing direct and more literal executions in its fragrances. And although they are excellent and impeccable in aroma, they do not always fulfill their purpose of conveying in a conceptual way the dessert that inspires them.

Les Fleurs Rouges works with a theme that has plenty of space to be executed in perfumery, inspired by Turkish delight. Also known as lokum, loukum or rahat lokum this is a kind of delicacy made of sugar, corn starch and rose water. There are many variations on how to make it and it is common to find recipes that include pistachios, hazelnuts and walnuts. While it is a theme with ample space to create, there are two classic niche perfumes that shaped what we expect from the theme: Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum and Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum. Both created a fantasy so strong of Turkish delight based on almonds, cherry, honey and roses that new perfumes on this theme will be compared with them for the better or the worse.

And therein lies the main problem because Les Fleurs Rouges is not a fantasy of Turkish delight based on almonds, cherry and honey. Much less is it one that uses pistachios, hazelnuts and walnuts. The perfume itself seems to go for a minimalist Turkish delight, just focusing on roses, citrus notes and a slight hint of sugar. The perfumer chooses a more succulent and fruity rose variety that goes well with the theme. Yet everything here is more like a rose jam than a Turkish delight in itself, referring to a more harmonious and sophisticated version of Lush's Rose Jam perfume.

Les Fleurs Rouges is a great Ode to Roses, to a gustatory abstraction of them that captures its sweet and fruity characteristics that make it possible to be used as a noble and different ingredient in cooking. As it still captures a gourmand theme I would personally change the description of the inspiration to reflect the real nature of the perfume on the skin and avoid disappointment.