4 de jun. de 2020

Bornitkoff Sayat Nova - Fragrance Review



Acting as a kind of traveling creative director Rajesh Balkrishnah brings something unexpected, rich and fitting to the style of the perfumers with whom he works, with every collaboration and every brand. It is difficult to predict the result of what he conceives with each perfumer due to the novelty he explores with each perfume. For Sayat Nova Rajesh it goes in a totally different direction than it has already done: we have a gourmand perfume, the last thing I would expect from someone who is a fan of agarwood, herbs and animalic nuances.

Inspired by the story of the Armenian poet of the same name, Sayat Nova has Rajesh in partnership with the perfumer Dimitry Bortnikov to compose a perfume with a challenge, to bring a composition that has not been explored yet. It is a way to honor a poet who is known to his people for the legendary and influential character of his romantic poetry. Sayat Nova is known for being a traveling poet and in a way Rajesh ends up behaving in a similar way, traveling under the influence of perfumery from around the world.

Although the goal is bold, Sayat Nova does deliver something unique. Its gourmand aroma is not banal or common, it is a fine harmony between gourmands and non-gourmands elements that surprises the sense of smell by the way everything flows in a round and passionate way. Although we have a creamy vanilla and reminiscent of liquor acting in the background, the tune is more complex: it is a kind of animalic gourmand, the forbidden romance between two worlds that in practice should not work.

Sayat Nova begins with an opening I have never felt in a perfume before, a juicy and ultra-realistic scent of apricot that makes you visualize the texture and flavor of it just by smelling the opening. The apricot seems to draw the exotic floral aroma of the narcissus, which acts in the background together with the animal oud creating an illusion of leather, animal nuances second skin and something that reminds me of quality ambergris. On top of that we have an adult and narcotic vanilla, combined with a sweet rum and the silky, juicy and fruity aroma of apricot.

Sayat Nova envelops the skin in this contradictory and unique dance of sweet, floral, animalic and fruity elements and it is surprising how everything is so well fitted that you wonder how it was not done before. It is maybe te reason why its first batch of 100 units quickly ran out, the fragrance is a sophisticated luxury, interesting and easy to be enjoyed and a perfume that made me curious to know more about the perfumery that Dimitry Bortnikov creates.