1 de jun. de 2020

Café de Parfum Black Addiction e Rustic Dawn - Fragrance Reviews


It is very interesting to see at Café de Parfum a new proposal to the gourmand inspirations even if it challenges the conception of what is gourmand. However, we have to consider that the level of sugar and texture of the desserts varies a lot between different cultures, which leaves room for interpretation. Even so, there are moments when Saruj manages to more clearly evoke the desserts that inspires him while there are other moments that from the point of view of the concept he leaves me disappointed. The curious thing is that his compositional skills are so good that even such disappointing moments are very good from an olfactory point of view.

This is the case, for example, with Black Addiction, an excellent fragrance within the line but one that does not easily connect with the brownie concept. Saruj seeks to honor a simple and delicious Brownie and for a few moments he even succeeds - here we have a kind of coffee brownie, a very bitter chocolate with a realistic roasted coffee smell. The problem is that Black Addiction becomes a perfume of leather and violets and loses a good part of its protagonists. However, Black Addiction is rocking the aroma of leather and violets it delivers, managing to capture with more performance and projection the idea that Tom Ford Extreme tries to propose while it seems to be a good tribute to the classic perfume Fahrenheit. It is a pity that the concept and the proposal of the line end up biasing this.

Rustic Dawn is a good example of when Saruj manages to deconstruct the sweetness of a certain idea, play with its elements and still be able to convey the honored dessert. We are facing a classic of desserts with a delicious aroma - apple pie - and also a theme that was dominated by a perfume that strongly evokes it - Hermés Ambré Narguile. Rustic Dawn successfully manages to create the fantasy of a green apple pie and seems to create the impression of the smell of green apple, cloves and cinnamon spreading around the environment. Geranium is used intelligently here, serving to bring a minty and green look and to hold the abstract impression of green apple longer. The base creates an oriental woody aroma that manages to keep the theme in a rich and sophisticated territory without going in a sweet or honey direction. It is one of the most successful reproductions within the line.