11 de jun. de 2020

Guerlain Bouquet de Paris - Fragrance Review


Guerlain's most classic and most hardcore fans certainly regret that the brand over the years has moved its perfumery style from something more classic and retro to something more modern. However, it is very difficult to sell sophisticated and complex perfumes to a new generation and the brand needs to adapt to the times so that it remains known and profitable. Still, Guerlain keeps in perfumes like Bouquet de Paris celebrations of its legacy and classic times

Bouquet de Paris is a tribute to the brand's flagship store, the 68 Champs-Elysées, and is a celebration of the scents of the perfumery capital. I would say that Bouquet de Paris is a spring celebration of Paris, capturing in a delicate and balanced way the smell of flowers with a more retro aura. Thierry Wasser also seems to be looking for a way to introduce the more vintage elements of the brand in a delicate, fresh and more contemporary way.

One of the flowers that is the center of the composition here is the carnation flower, widely used in vintage perfumes and one of the key elements of classic perfumery. Many focus a lot on oak moss, nitro-musks or civet as part of the classic signature of perfumery and it is curious how the carnation is ignored by almost everyone, with its warm, black and floral aroma being as or more important as other celebrated materials. And the scent of the carnation flower and the clove itself suffered heavily from the severe restrictions on eugenol and its derivatives.

Thierry Wasser works around this in Bouquet de Paris using materials that are available today to replace the eugenol limits, probably using methyl diantillis to suggest the aroma of the clove. In a way, the perfumer ends up capturing the flower's aroma in a more impressionistic and delicate way. Bouquet de Paris reminds me of the smell of flowers in the flower shop - the spicy aroma of carnations with their greenest and most delicate nuances that recall chrysanthemum. It is a velvety and petal delicacy that in classic perfumery was difficult to capture both due to limitations in the extraction of essential oils (which were heavier and more "dirty") as well as limitations of synthetics available for this.

Around the scent of carnation and the nuances that refer to chrysanthemum we have a light powdery touch of iris, and it is interesting that the brand does not mention it in the notes. The iris combines with a slightly more retro and powdery rose and the combination of carnation, rose and a light citrus touch sometimes reminds me of echoes of the Habit Rouge perfume, in a very delicate way. At the same time, I notice in the evolution of the perfume a woody base with a sweetness of balmy resins and a slight hint of vanilla as well. It is an allusion to the resinous, woody and sweet bases of the brand's classic perfumes. It is as if here Thierry Wasser honored L'Heure Bleue using the Apres L'ondee's minimalist, watercolored style.

Bouquet de Paris may disappoint due to the more delicate style of its aroma, however I understand that capturing that more delicate and floral aspect of the spring bouquet would be lost in a more intense and heavy version. It is a luxurious perfume in a more restrained way and a celebration of the brand's classics in a less obvious way - references to the brand's classics are present, but we must pay attention. Unfortunately this type of more classic and sophisticated perfume sells little nowadays and that is why Bouquet de Paris ends up only existing in Paris and at a high price: 550 euros 125ml.