28 de fev. de 2011

Oroville - Xerjoff (English Review)

Notes: Roman Chamomile, Clary Sage, Orange Flower,Italian Neroli, Carnation,Tobacco leaves, Sandalwood from Mysore, Galbanum,Vanilla, Amber, White Musks

The Italian brand Xerjoff is positioned  in a very demanding market, where the fragrance cost is not a problem, and where the main objective is to offer a luxury experience that combines sophisticated packaging, bottles and elegant materials chosen with care. The brand has three lines, one of which is the shooting starts, whose exotic inspiration (meteorites fallen in Russia in 1947) seems to be the starting point for the creation of  a vintage aesthetic consctructed with materials available and not restricted to use today.

Oroville is described by their site as a tobacco creation. Its combination of tobacco and clove recreates, as in many perfumes dominant with these notes, the environment of a more elitist men's club. The tobacco and cloves are the stars of the composition and confer during the execution a nice aroma of spices that brings the best of a cigarette / cigar without the damages of smoking one. They are part of a broader portrait, where there is mainly a traditional Italian citrus notes wrapped in a more aromatic and delicately sweet, creamy base. The fragrant opening of this stylish club is done by a combination of sage and Roman chamomile, where the sage loose part of its urinal side due to the touch of an almost fruity Roman chamomile. Quickly you smell the classical colony aspects provided by the orange blossom and neroli, which are only a prerogative for the tobacco and cloves. The Galbanum, a supporting note, appears sometimes during the evolution, between the opening and base, as a bitter green landscape that makes up the pungent aroma of this club.

The biggest problem with  Oroville is the use of this rich aesthetic of exquisite materials done with complex layers to finish it in a too discreet form. Everybody on this club whisper after 4 hours the skin, in what seems to be a whisper of a delightful combination of vanilla and musk mainly. It is as if there was a need to make a silence after a triumphal and more pompous entry. Oroville leaves us wishing for a smaller dose of good manners, because his voice is too low to be heard and makes it a candidate to be reapplied during the day to preserve the best of it on the skin.

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