19 de jul. de 2011

Rubj Eau de Parfum - Vero Profumo English Review

Bergamot, mandarin, neroli, passion fruit, cumin, orange flower absolute, tuberose, basil, cedar, oak moss, musk

The passion fruit  as a conductive thread in Kiki, Onda and Rubj EDP concentrations was for me a strange idea at a first moment and left me worried about how would be the final result. But you can see that the use of this exotic fruit was thought-out and carefully combined with the original idea. The fruit behaves in a more or less exotic way in each of the fragrances, producing different influence on the final result of each fragrance.  If on Onda you see that she disputes the center of attentions with the vetiver and if on Kiki you see she producing an unexpected harmony with the sweet lavender, on Rubj she is just used as a secondary note that gives an extra color to the lush and romantic floral theme.  Rubj EDP is to the original extrait like  a high couture idea translated to a more affordable reality but keeping the original quality. Rubj like it was at first is something that stand out with the outstanding orange flower, but the intensity is not easy to control and may limit its wearing. The EDP keeps the main idea but diminutes the intensity and keep the strong aroma, giving it more legibility to the small details. Rubj opens with a quick citrus opening and doesn't waist time to reach the floral accord formed by sweet and hot nuances. The passion fruit is quite hidden behind the orange flower exuberance and the tuberose, replacing in parts the fruity and sensual animalic aspects of the jasmine used in the extrait. It's a a floral aroma that surrounds your skin and nose with an aroma that seems to seduce you with a cheerful and bright smell.  This is not a silly love, and it's carefully constructed to not tire the nose by not going only into a single direction. You see that the floral idea morphs into a creamy and woody base, a support for the heart that doesn't compete with it during the moments the flowers sings on skin. Cedar, musk, and moss gave structure to the silk flower tissue; you can also notice the basil as one of the tiniest details of the sewing that helps to enrich all the rest. Rubj edp uses every little detail with harmony, showing that you can do an exotic and balanced composition when you have high quality materials and a perfumer focused on the quality of her art, doing the best she can without the pressure of launching a fragrance the way a rabbit produce puppies: at a high quantity, but hard to differentiate one from the other. This is a fragrance that the lovers of romantic and exuberant flowers should check to see what they are missing.

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