8 de ago. de 2011

M7 - Yves Saint Laurent English Review

Notes: Rosemary, mandarin, bergamot, agarwood, vetiver, amber, musk, Mandrake root

Some fragrances mark phase of our lives especially because we, as human beings, end associating smells, colors, sounds to some specific good or bad moments and those elements end recreating them when witnessed as if we were living them again. M7 is for me one fragrance that marks a good phase, the phase that made feel in love for fragrances and that awakened my curiosity about a world that wasn’t explored by myself before this moment.

It’s possible to notice in all YSL creations before L’Oreal the presence of intense and outstanding creations that don’t take their success in successful formulas of things already available, where you copy something just to profit with the launch of a product that hasn’t anything new to offer. M7 also fits the bold style of Tom Ford with the quality and style of the brand, producing a combination seen few times on the male market so far.
Tom Ford was visionary to conceive with the help of the perfumes a sensual and modern aroma linked to a traditional essence of perfumery that wasn’t explored at that time. M7 was launched at a time where commercial fragrances haven’t explored agarwood, a wood which is part of the Arab perfume culture. The resin extracted from species of this wood produces a complex aroma of liqueur, medicinal, woody, animalic, dry and sweet aspects, being in general associated with roses and saffron at the Arab classical compositions. It’s one of the noblest and most expensive raw materials, that has been achieving even highest prices due to the extinction process of some species and the long time required to achieve the best quality of the aroma of some variations too. This transformed it into a symbol of richness and power, with some agarwood fragrances being only available to Arabian nobility.
M7 can capture the complex aroma of agarwood in a creation which is unique, artistic, but wearable at the same time, producing an exquisite and intense Oud, another common name for the wood. The first impression at the opening is of a pronounced remedial aura, which may be unpleasant for some. After that you get a thick and liqueur moment that is like a alcohol liqueur mixed with herbs where the sweet part of the liqueur forms an intriguing contrast with the dry herbal aroma.
As the scent evolves on skin, you are able to identify the woodier and drier aroma of agarwood, accented by the vetiver, and this moment of vetiver and agarwood decreases the dominance of the medicinal and liqueur facet of the opening. This dry but hot moment last a long time on skin and when it starts to fade away it gives space to an amber and musky moment that conducts the oud idea to its incensed part and leaving a slightly animalic nuance. At the shower gel version of M7 you can also notice the spicy earthiness of Mandrake root, which is not unfortunately present on the EDT.

What impresses me more in M7 is how the agarwood is present and accentuated by all the notes. At every moment you get different aspects of the wood at skin, some more intense and others only suggested, as if the perfumer orchestrated the notes to be a support to the noble and abstract idea.

M7 is perfect for colder days, where the scent doesn’t rush its evolution and let you taste every aspect of the idea. It’s a chic, outstanding sent, of excellent longevity on skin, one that must be doused moderately to avoid that it becomes aggressive and suffocating.

Note: M7 was recently reformulated during the YSL license transition to Loreal. The one that is sold now has a cheaper bottle, a transparent one that mimics the original amber color with a stick at the back of the bottle. The fragrance has lost part of the intensity, becoming drier, earthy, shortening the medicinal and liqueur aroma. The silage and longevity are good but not as good as in the first version, but the scent still remains a good commercial agarwood idea, maybe easier to like at first now.  

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