17 de set. de 2011

Cuir Venenum - Parfumerie Generale English Review

Notes: leather, orange blossom, coconut, musk, citruses, myrrh

Notes noticed on skin at the first 15 minutes: orange blossom, leather, citruses

Notes noticed on skin after 15 minutes until the next 2 hours: leather, orange blossom, coconut,

Notes noticed on skin after from 2 hours until the end of the fragrance: musk, myrrh

Brief Impression (click on read more to see the full review): dramatic flower leathery opening that unfortunately drydown to a calm musky base.

Cuir Venenum shows great ideas, but the execution of them is not the best one that you have from the brand. The best Parfumerie Generale scents work the contrast from the beginning until the end, making exoticness seems easy and natural as if the hard notes were longtime friends. But at Cuir Venenum the idea seems to extract not friendship and balance, but a contrast of a fatal orange blossom over a dry and inky leather aroma. The battle makes one run each other and the usual elements of the brand are absent failing to produce one Cuir to enter the best of the line.

The opening is simple and intense, with an orange flower over citruses that smell at first like grape juice of an intense sugariness. The leather at first is shy but starts to progressively grow to dispute the scene with orange flower to see who is the most fatal note. At this moment you have a very seductive leathery aroma of purple floweriness and fruitiness. But the intensiveness with time distorts the sensual aroma and kills the leather, leaving space for a great non indolic orange flower. The use of coconut is doused and moderated, creating a fruity milkiness that pairs down with the base, which fails of producing a lethal aroma and just gives a shy and warm and slightly powdery base of musk and myrrh.

If Cuir Venenum were really a poison, it'd be one that act only at the first minutes. You would think that there is no turning back but would feel relieved to see that it was just an impression.It's not a lethal leather, and it's even able to sustain the leather note for so long. The grape facet is curious, but way to sugared, and the base seems basic. If this one received the complex treatment that compositions like Aomassai and Bois Blond received we would have one of the best leathers of the line. But it hasn't, so it's just an ok fragrance made with excellent ingredients but of a questionable execution and evolution on skin.

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