4 de set. de 2011

Les Nombres d'Or Cuir - Mona di Orio English Review

Notes: Cardamom, Absinthe, leather, castoreum, opoponax, cade, juniper

Creating a collection of fragrances naming each one on an specific raw material is an strategy that can result in good or bad results according the vision of the person who conceive them. The danger of this approach is the creation of products with a concept that doesn’t go beyond the main material (like Dior Vetiver) or that doesn’t have any clear relationship between the aroma and what names it (some le labos fit serve as an example for this case), disappointing who try the fragrance on skin expecting the evidence on that note. The Les Nombres d’Or Collection of Mona di Orio is far from both problems, being able to contribute with adorable and complex creations of incredible quality that end standing out at crowded inspirations isles that are so classic that doing this is a hard task due to lot of great products available.

Cuir was launched among the first trio that started the line and it is a leathery composition with a classic style and a balanced and complex evolution, one that has a harmonic manly aura difficult to find nowadays. Mona di Orio revisit with Cuir one of the most classic themes and her golden rate is what helps her to be victorious on it by balancing the elements to create her own Cuir de Russie idea. The concept applied to conceive the fragrance creates a leather idea which is linear and complex at the same time, keeping a dry leathery aura that transforms itself as the notes that compose it evolutes on skin retaining the dry elegant aspect of the idea throughout all the notes.

At the opening you notice the cardamom and juniper creating the softer and brighter side of the cuir idea with a slightly spicy and herbal aroma doing the part of the citrus opening on the overall balance of the leathery idea. The absinth and the cade oil produces and interesting combination of rubbery, incensed and bitter green aromas, where the cade produces the link with the classic leathery idea with the absinth bringing this idea to a dry and bitter herbal region. Gradually the idea retain the dry leather overall impression but develops to what produces the base of the idea, a mix of leather, castoreum and opoponax. The opoponax surprises not having the powdery aspect that it appears when the note is used at some leather fragrances, focusing instead on the resinous and sweet sides of the essence. The castoreum is interestingly used to allude the animal aspect of the leather, without creating a animalic and dirty aroma that would turn Cuir into something difficult to wear for some.

Cuir has an organic evolution on skin, one that makes you notice the changes at the aroma without any clear break of each phase. The equilibrium makes it a great loyal interpretation of the past, of the bright and darker contrast of the Cuirs de Russie, one interpretation that it’s at the same time modern for being not to intimate and not to expansive. It’s a great alternative to the lost of most leathery classics, the ones that were predominantly dry and smoky, an alternative that shows the past being interpreted in a clever and personal way.

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