18 de set. de 2011

Praliné de Santal - Parfumerie Générale English Review

Notes: Sandalwood, heliotrope, hazelnut, cedar, cashmeran

Notes noticed on skin at the first 15 minutes: sandalwood, hazelnut

Notes noticed on skin after 15 minutes until the next 2 hours: sandalwood, hazelnut, heliotrope

Notes noticed on skin after from 2 hours until the end of the fragrance: cedar, cashmeran

Brief Impression (click on read more to see the full review): the peanut cousin of Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau

With Praliné de Santal and Tonkamande Parfumerie Generale tries to achieve what they call a "semi-gourmand" style. The line has a consistent set of gourmand fragrances and you would expect both new launches to be as great and worked as both were. But for some reasons the semi aspect doesn't work on neither Tonkamande nor Praliné. While both have delicious moments they don't keep them from the beginning until the end. And also both seem variations of ideas already existents, with Praliné de Santal resembling a lot Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau.

Maybe it was a coincidence but both fragrances use a sandalwood note that tries to explore the creamy nuances of sandalwood as a grown up gourmand. But while Jeux de Peau puts it into a darker and more dynamic context, Praliné de Santal seems to give a more linear interpretation to it. The milkiness of sandalwood is bring from the background to the center and it's the first note you'll smell on skin. It doesn't have the buttered aura that Jeux de Peau have, putting the woody creaminess on a nutty context. The hazelnut is noticed soon on the fragrance and with the heliotrope they form a sugared peanut impression as if you were eating a pralined peanut candy. This candy doesn't last, falling very soon into a whisper of velvety impression. The cashmeran evokes very distantly a suede aroma which is combined with the woody metalic face of cedar.

The semi-gourmand of Praliné de Santal could have been more explored, specially at the base, that seems to be there just to offer something to be smelled after the dynamic of sandalwood, hazelnut and heliotrope. It's not what you would expect from a Parfumerie Generale fragrance and it seems more of a sketch than a final product, a sketch were you could add more elements to test different dynamics of the scent. Praliné de Santal offers the mininum that you expect from the brand, a pleasant sweet fragrance that seems to use good materials, being they natural or chemical. But its biggest fault is not going beyond to offer more than that.

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