17 de set. de 2011

Tonkamande - Parfumerie Generale English Review

Notes: almond milk, aldehydes, tonka bean, wheat, sandalwood, vanilla, amber

Notes noticed on skin at the first 15 minutes: aldehydes, almond milk, tonka bean

Notes noticed on skin after 15 minutes until the next 2 hours: tonka bean, wheat

Notes noticed on skin after from 2 hours until the end of the fragrance: sandalwood, vanilla, amber

Brief Impression (click on read more to see the full review): average mix of classical aldehydic aura and milky tonka dominance

If you just read the notes, the name and the brand you would expect Tonkamande to be a huge gourmand fragrance from Pierre, who has been doing this recurrently at his great brand Parfumerie Generale. But this is exactly what you don't get when applying on skin. Tonkamande may be a little bit disappointing for ones and surprising by others exactly because of this but is still a fragrance that doesn't leave a love or hate reaction. It fails to produce a unique moment, seeming more like a ghost of a parfumerie generale fragrance than the creation itself.

Aldehydes and almond pair together to create a classical and soft powdery first impression. The aldehydes create a faint floweriness that is extended by the bitterness and milkiness of the almond, as if the flowers had something slightly medicinal and bitter at their smell. The almond ends not having the sweeter aspect, which is also lacking on the tonka bean that comes right next linked to both notes. It seems  little bit bitter as the almond, with a very discreet roasted aura, the one used to make harmony with the wheat note. They form a skinscent cereal accord that could have a little more presence and identity. Presence and identity are also lacking on the base, which is comfort but common and uninspiring: a base os sandalwood, vanilla and amber so doused and moderated that it seems more a base for a better worked massmarket fragrance than for a more exclusive creation.

As a limited edition, Tonkamande fails to leave a strong impression, but it's not a fail composition. It has a good dynamic through the aldehydic milkyness to the drier roasted cerealic accord. But it's just average, seemeing too much balanced and faint. It's a scent that you will feel comfortable wearing everyday but that may be not leave a stronger memory or legacy that wants you smell it again time after time - it's shy voice and lack of content after some hours compromise it a lot.

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