13 de out. de 2011

La Collection Couturier Mitzah - Christian Dior English Review

Notes: coriander, labdanum, spices, rose, cinnamon, patchouli, incense, honey, vanilla

Part of the expansion of what was originally a luxury line of colognes with a unisex aura but dedicated to man, Mitzah is a composition that François Demarchy made inspired by Dior's muse, Mitzah. His homage is in parts interesting and cozy and in parts forgetable. Mitzah sounds a little bit of Dior reshaping Coromandel aura with less austerity and more comfortable, removing the powdery, the loud amber and replacing it by and overdose of  labdanum, patchouli and vanilla. This makes it a fragrance that goes directly to the base phase, one which is longlasting and seems linked with the inspiration. But the linear feeling of Mitzah doesn't work so good and makes it sound less intriguing than it could be. The labdanum, vanilla and patchouli aroma are constant, with quick movementes on the other notes. Sometimes you do get a spicy aura, a dry honeyed aroma and a floral note which seems buried inside the oriental base. But that is all, at the end what wins is always the three notes that started everything. Mitzah seems much like a high couture dress made of stunning materials but one that lacks a proper shape, as if someone just used a basic idea and forgot to give it his or her own twist. It works, but it feels like something is lacking, and it's something that is not reached with tiny exquisite details.

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