8 de out. de 2011

Rose 31 - Le Labo English Review

Notes: Grasse rose, cumin, pepper, clove, nutmeg, olibanum, cedar, amber, gaiac wood, oud, cistus, vetiver, animalic notes

Le labo range of fragrances seems quite confusing sometimes, specially regarding their names and inspirations.It seems quite misleading that part of their fragrances don't have a strong relationship between the material who names it and the scent overall, specially if you consider that this naming system is used to avoid influentiating the final user experience. Also, they call themselves revolutionaries, but their scents doesn't show that. The brand seems to produce much ado about nothing, with scents that aren't so expensive but that the price doesn't seem to reflect the final product.

It's the case of Rose 31. Rose 31 seems like an almost there sketch, a ambicious project of a rose composition created towards the mens. But to do this, a good part of the rose is killed inside the composition. Rose 31 is more of spices and animalic woody accents than the rose that names it. The opening is in parts dominated by the sweaty cumin or the dry-spicy combination of clove, nutmeg and pepper, it will depend on the wamth of the day or your skin and your nose sensibility. After that, there is a a rose which is in parts sour and in parts spicy, showing sometimes a animalic facet that seems controled and sexy. But after that the scent seems unfinished and generic. The woods listed at their notes seem faint, synthetic, a thin combination of gaiac wood, vetiver and oud. And there is a metallic and sour ambered note at the base that seems to be more evident to the nose sometimes and it's quite an unpleasant drydown once the top and heart notes develop.

Rose 31 is not a bad fragrance, but if you wear it paying attention to every part of the section you'll see that the theme disrupts with a final moment more proper to a laundry product than a scent of its price. Also, for an auto-entittled revolutionary brand Rose 31 seems normal and what you would expect from a floral fragrance towards man, one that hidden the flower parts and put the emphasis on spices and woods. Maybe if they leave their arrogance behind they would be able to produce better offerings where you pay for a proper base, not only for pleasant heart and top notes.

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