7 de ago. de 2015

Balenciaga La Fuit des Heures Fragrance Review (English)

In my recent journey of amateur learning in  how to create perfumes, the few formulas of great classics I found showed me something amazing, a use far more aware, even in the most luxurious cases, of precious and expensive natural materials, especially the flowers absolutes. And that led me a question that also resonated in my head while trying Le Fuit des Heures on skin: what really sets the vintage classics apart of modern creations?

Certainly the price decline of the formulas and the growing intersection over the years between the scent of functional products and perfumes meant to be luxurious plays an important role, but not only that. The perfume has undergone a major change in the business, no longer a product that reflects the luxury of the brand values ​​and therefore has room to boast a wealth. On leaving this role, he took a pillar of profits and became commercially pressed as a product that does not need to sell at its core brand values ​​but need to bring an important part of the revenue from it.

Unfortunately, those who missed it was the consumer himself because, as the name says that creation, the perfume is a fleeting art. The artful of an aroma is not spread by images and even if it is possible to rescue part of its magic in words, emotions, memories and textures lose some of its color and precision when going to this media. In addition, there is no deep concern in conveying the history of the past and use it to serve as inspiration for the present.

Developed by Germaine Cellier for the renowned couture designer, Le Fuit des Heures certainly shows the impact that Parfums Chanel had on its competitors with its sophisticated creations of flowers, woody and musky aldehydic bases. Despite the reviews available on the internet relate Fuit des Heures to aldehydic classic that catapulted Chanel in the world of perfumery, the beautiful Chanel No 5, Fuit des Heures makes me remember the luxurious mysterious and sophisticated aura of sandalwood, flowers and aldehydes present in Bois des Iles. At the same time, it is surprising that there is a big echo to me in a animalic oriental floral structure that brings me to a perfume that would be set at least 30 years later. The lack of deeper information, it is difficult to say whether Fuit des Heures was contemporary and prophetic at the same time or Cartier Must had an unknown inspiration of the general public.

One thing that surprised me here is the abstraction smell, something that is not common in the creations of Germaine Cellier, fond of the use bases (ready to use combinations of natural and synthetic materials to reproduce odor) and dense aromas blocks in their formulas . Perhaps inspired by the Chanel style has led to this kind of formula, something that is only possible to see in her work in another and still in a much less obvious way, the aroma of leather and violets in  Balmain Jolie Madame.

The Fleeting Moment makes a right use of aldehydes as an important part of its output. Even after many years you can see traces of them in the first moments in the skin, giving a soapy tone that in the correct proportions sounds elegant and slightly citric. There is a slight herbal touch, something that seems to me used to suggest tuberose scent and combination with ylang while giving a subtly smell camphor output. The heart of this aroma is rich in flowers (with predominating ylang and jasmine), creamy, slightly fruity, carnal, but contained the same time, mixed with a touch of earthy iris and the soft sweetness of the violet ionones. The base shows the elegance of animalic nuances and slightly atalcadas of nitro musks in combination with some other type of more creamy musk, which complements the aura of woody sandalwood used.

Certainly Le Fuit des Heures fulfilled after discontinuation what  its advertising suggests, making it more valuable than gold when it becoma a vintage rare fragrance, coveted and highly priced. This is only a reflection of his own aura of luxury that was lost with time in perfumery, although this is recovered in the most expensive segments and niche industry today. Ultimately, the fleetingness of a good aroma is costly for both the industry and the consumer.

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