5 de out. de 2015

Guerlain Le Bolshoi Black Swan English Review

If there's one thing the Guerlain certainly has a century expertise and that stands out over other brands is the maximum  capacity of exploraring the olfactory identity of the brand. If the concept of flankers is a more recent development in contemporary perfumery, in Maison Guerlain it has   always been present through creations that explored alternative paths to the same idea. It is known that there are similar scents with the great classics of the house (Mitsouko, L'Aprés ondée, L'Heure Bleue among others), but only the most iconic withstood the time (in most cases, as there are creations like Parure who died due to infeasibility of reformulation to meet the current restrictions). So famous is the duality of the familiar aura of Guerlains perfumes, always in the new and the known threshold. It is something that has survived the style changes that the brand has gone to fit its current audience.

Le Bolshoi Black Swan it is combined with other key elements of the brand exploration, creating collectible items desired to be obtained only in specific markets and available for a short period of time. Alie to this beautiful classic bottles of timeless luxury and a upper price positioning it like a rarity and you will have it coveted by perfume brand hardcore fan (I include myself in this group).

Honoring the third time in 2014 the famous Russian ballet Le Bolshoi, Black Swan is still an interpretation of the famous ballet play Swan Lake, embodying in its essence the Black Swan. I confess I can see a graceful, classic appeal and fluidity of ballet reflected in a composition centered on sandalwood, tea and flowers, but I disagree with the concept chosen by the brand. Certainly the Black Swan has a more attractive sensuality to sell an exclusive perfume, however in Black Swan it  lacks just that and the malice attributed to it. Here we see, in fact, the representation of the White Swan, innocent, graceful and perfect in its movements.

The fragrance family which Black Swan  is inserted is one that not much gets the spotlight of the brand, the scents that seem to revolve around the green aroma and citrus tea and a delicacy that refers to green jasmine and lily of the valley / muguet. The scents that seem to gravitate around these ideas are Cherry Blossom, Les Voyages Olfactives London, Aqua Allegoria Teazurra and Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca. All four operate in different ways that pure, green, virginal and harmonious theme and Black Swan joins them, looking more complete in its top and base edges.

Despite looking to me like a more commercial setting, the nuances gently dance on the tips of their feet as they parade through my nose. The Guerlain uses its history with  gourmands aromas and delivers one of their most delicate perhaps, an illusion that makes me think of the texture of a lemon meringue at the same time that brings me to the smell of tea leaves, jasmine gren flowers, lily and lindem flowers  maybe. It's a beautiful harmony of green, citrus, floral and slightly sweet nuances. The base has an equivalent texture, where sandalwood is used smoothly complemented by a creamy touch of vanilla, tonka and white musks.

For a scent so delicate, airy and gracious, Black Swan longevity is good, lasting some 7-8 hours on the skin. I find myself in some skeptical manner in a limited edition so expensive and rare, but if I could I would surrender to the graces o this Swan - even that in tis black content and it sounds as white as snow. This is the biggest secret of Guerlain, when well executed its perfumes make us lower the defenses and cause us to want them.

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