15 de out. de 2015

Jean Patou Vacances, Colony and L'Heure Attendue - English Reviews

In the centennial celebration of the brand Jean Patou began a rescue process of its classics and lesser-known perfumes than the great successes of the brand (Joy, Sublime and 1000). This revival can certainly be seen both with joy and with caution. Joy since there is consistency and aesthetic quality in the historical collection of Jean Patou perfumes,  something rarely seen in today's perfumery - rich, complex creations and a clearly visible signature fragrance crafted intelligently in each perfume. The caution comes, however, as rescue last historical creations of Jean Patou is not an easy task, especially considering that the floral absolutes today are much more expensive than in the past. some musks can no longer be used and the clove, an important element of these creations, had to be restricted considerably due to new European regulations. Added to this the need to win over a new audience and you have a big challenge. To evalute the final results of these reissues, I decided to rescue my reviews of  the historical miniatures from a kit launched some years ago by the brand - called Ma Collection - and compare with the reissues.

Ma Collection Versions

Vacances. Patou takes a trip from its ambery signature, leaves the clove and orris behind and focus on a simple and harmonic structure. For me, this fragrance is all about the green bitterness of galbanum, the almond, polen-like aroma of mimosa and the musky base. Maybe there is something floral and green that produces on me a rose illusion, but it seems mixed with the almond mimosa. Lovely and cheerful fragrance, i'd certainly wear it into a trip to Paris.

Colony. From the Ma Collection, this is one of the standouts to me. I never found any other pineapple chypre that sounded so real and ripe at the opening as this one. And also, never found any that can hold it well and go into a classy chypre floral structure, a kind of tropics sister of Chanel Cristalle. It seems that Colony also has a controvery history, since it's original bottle is at the same time inspired by a pineapple and a grenade and the name is an ode to exploitation colonies - and in this i wonder if it was a fragrance with a very dry sense of humor.

L'Heure Attendue. From all the Patous on the Ma Collection Box, this is the most ambery one. It focus, different from others which also have the same signature, on a sweet, resinous and warm amber which is similar to the one you find in Guerlain Guet Apens. The effect is similar, a rich ambery powdery fragrance with plenty of expensive sweet flowers. It smells expensive and luxurious and coxy at the same time.

Collection Heritage Versions
Vacances - the reformulation retains much of the general idea of ​​casual chic scent of holidays, keeping the combination of galbanum, mimosa and musk. This version is as good as it adds extra complexity to the idea, reinforcing the green aroma of roses and adding a very noticeable herbaceous floral scent of hyacinth that blends nicely with the bitter green galbanum and the pollen aroma and almonds of mimosa. The base seems more complex too, with a slight oriental smoky suggestion amid the warm musk.

Colony - from this of trio relaunched creations, Colony is certainly what has undergone a major upgrade, which can cause great disappointment among fans of the original ripe pineapple chypre scent One positive thing is that the brand made that clear from the beginning, saying that Colony would be a modern re-adaptation of the classic. I believe you can no longer use the synthetics that recreate the fruit or the company that provided the base with that smell is gone. In addition, restrictions on oak moss make it difficult to recreate a past chypre with the same balance. The reorchestration turned it into a floral chypre, lighter in the mossy aspect and with a more aldehydic aroma, slightly powdery and green. The opening has a sparkling citrus and green tones, giving way quickly to a rose of a slightly metallic and herbaceous smell. Jasmine gives a subtle floral touch sweet, suggesting fruity nuances. The Base has become more woody than mossy, earning a musky and silky appearance. Certainly the new Colony is a stylish and well-made perfume, but very distantly related to the original masterpiece.

L'Heure Attendue - just like Vacances, L'Heure Attendue is able to maintain the overall aura of the original composition and give a new wealth the idea. I realize that the Heritage Collection has a new signature that revolves around green and slightly powdery floral aromas. They can be seen here as well and are the first impression one gets of the perfume before its goes to the signature rich and cozy amber. In this version, the use of  peach, rose and ylang in the heart notes gives L'Heure Attendue a chic floral aura that reminds you somehow the olfactory signature of Chanel. In the last stage we have an accord of rich amber, with hints of dark chocolate, creamy woods and sweetened hot resins. It is certainly a luxurious aroma of excellent fixation and projection.

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