24 de nov. de 2015

Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial and Volnay Yapana - Short Reviews

Despite its name suggest me perhaps a more aristocratic setting, the new member of the exclusive collection of Van Cleef & Arpels is nothing but exactly that feeling. Ambre Imperial does not relate to a classical sense of a amber accord or the mysteries of the Orient seen through imperialist point of view as the name suggests. Instead, the texture is mineral, powdery, something that seems to explore the renaissance of powdery perfumes, being seen here in a slightly citrus optic and light and silky ambroxan effect. At some points it resembles the Hermès Ambre des Merveilles, though with less intensity in citrus ideas. The Ambroxan stands out more, and it mixes  with caramelic tonka bean nuances and a creamy and sweet aroma of vanilla. There is a drier woody touch to complement the impression of light and silky amber and a slight aura of incense highlighting the resin side of the idea. As might be expected for the theme, Ambre Imperial does not stand out for the novelty of its composition, but the harmony, good projection, duration and pleasantness of its aroma.

In the same powdery renaissance we can frame Volnay Yapana. Originally released in 1922, Yapana emerged inspired by an American herb that marked one of the brand's founders. The perfumer Amelie Bourgois me seems to have been inspired by the original proposal of the sense of well-being and comfort that this herb provides, exploring in Yapana a warm, powdery and sweet texture. Yapana reinforces for me the spicier side of the 4092 base that permeates the Volnay perfumes. It scent opens with a sweet, warm and dry smell of pink pepper, which contrasts with discreet touches of a sweet patchouli. It is possible to realize an iris note worked to enhance the texture of the powdery aura while confers a discrete leathery touch, secondary and very abstract in the composition. The aroma of amber and vanilla are hot, but act as a second warm skin, of great duration but without much intensity. This is perhaps the main weakness of Yapana, which despite chic at times sounds a bit sedated / too quiet.