13 de dez. de 2015

5 Standout Moments - November 2015

November was also a difficult month to choose 5 highlights from the international perfumery and 3 in the national. In November there were great choices in the commercial perfumes as the exclusive / niche and artisanal. On the national scene, we had no creativity in the composition of odors but we had quality and consistency in the proposed consumer products. My selection below tries to be balanced but certainly tends toward my passion to artisanal and independent perfumery.

Top 5 Internacionais

1. Papillon Salomé

2015 was certainly a great year for British perfumer Liz Moores, owner of Papillon. Her creation Salome collected accolades and rave reviews on different blogs, earning four stars also from the critic Luca Turin, very demanding in his reviews. It is not surprising to me that, Salome focuses on the type of perfume that has become a rarity today, a rich floral of indolic nuances, harmonious, full of details. It is an erotic scent without being vulgar or without its mysteries.

2. Pell Wall Perfumes Persian Prince

The second choice also belongs to a British independent brand that is driven by Chris Bartlett, a well-known performer of those attending the DIY session in Basenotes forum. Chris is a generous person to share his fragrance knowledge both on his blog and in Basenotes forum and you can see in his compositions he puts into practice what was learned without ever leaving the usability side. Persian Prince is my highlight due the ability to bypass the technical difficulty working the scent of hyacinth flower and create a sense of luxurious green floral woody nuances, which refers to a luxury soap without sounding functional.

3. Thierry Mugler Cuir Impertinent

The new exclusive collection of Thierry Mugler has in a way a didactic approach by making each member of it a representative of a olfactory family, trying to stay true to the elements of it and interpret it in a new way. One that best achieves this concept and can target current trends is Cuir impertinent. The leather crafted idea here is that of a sweet leather with tobacco nuances, slightly smoked, something in the veins of what we find in Tuscan Leather. What makes it interesting and different from other creations inspired by Tuscan leather is the  green, fresh and slightly minty contrast in the output, which makes you think of  fresh grass.

4. Volnay Etoile d'Or

Slowly we have witnessed a reborn of brands that have emerged in the golden age of perfumery and unfortunately over time ended up closing the doors. The result of restoration of these brands is a complex process that requires a sensitivity to remain true to the original style while it is adapted to contemporary tastes. A successful outcome in this regard are the perfumes of the French Volnay, especially the excellent Etoile d'Or. Etoile in the best possible way representes the olfactory powdery, slightly sweet and floral signature of the brand, combining with spicy and oriental nuances. A rich scent in detail and elegant in its aroma.

5. Zoologist Perfumes Hummingbird

The Canadian Zoologist is the biggest proof to me that in the present scenario you can start with a small brand, which has interesting concepts, good and affordable perfumes. The perfume inspired by the hummingbird is the fourth member of an excellent collection of works that not only use animals as inspiration, but create aromas that seem to fit the facts known of their habits, symbols and personalities. Created by perfumer Shelley Waddington, Hummingbird is a wonderful nectar of flowers, fruits and resins that gives the sensation of beauty, joy and gladness that is associated with hummingbird.

Top 3 Nacionais

1. Mahogany Make Me Fever Gold

The Mahogany is a national company that won the affection of the Brazilian public by going beyond mere copies of imported perfumes, concerned in adapting to the highest possible quality the ideas found in this segment and offer new details in the fragrances known when this is necessary. Make Me Fever Gold is one of the flagship brand for the excellent adaptation of the radiant scent of fresh, powdery and green roses of the sucessuful perfume Chloe. The differential touch in my opinion is the base of vanilla nuances and excellent sillage and projection for a relatively affordable perfume.

2. Egeo Seduza

Although it was a limited edition Valentine's Day, Egeo Seduza entered the Top 3 of the month in anticipation that its excellent aroma come back into production soon. Boticario has managed to create an excellent modern chypre who combined the most delicate aroma of the rose and the softness of the base of musks with a delicious gourmand scent which reminds you to a mixture of strawberry and chocolate. A perfume that surprised me the due the  consistency of the smell from the beginning until the way during its evolution on skin.

3. Natura Esta Flor Rosa

With a busy year for Natura in perfumery segment, the line Esta flor was the biggest hit of the brand both in concept and in marketing. By choosing the queen of flowers to start a collection with a most prestigious aspect, the brand was able to offer a soliflore of Rose presenting the flower with a fruity lightness without trivializing it in its secondary nuances. The result is the kind of fresh, persistent and elegant floral that the brand  tried to reproduce in several perfumes throughout the year but only nailed in this creation.

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