11 de jan. de 2016

Cartier Déclaration - Fragrance Review

Déclaration is one of the few recent cases of a modern classic, influential both in Jean-Claude Ellena's career as the history of Cartier and male Perfumery as a whole. The moments of birth of a fragrance that becomes a watershed and a benchmarking for other releases are already rare in women's perfumes and even more in the male ones and when smelling Déclaration i was sure to be standing before one of those occasion.

This acclaimed perfumer's work is like an ode and monument to transparency and minimalism, a style he would develop further in Hermès (and unfortunately sometimes automatically and without many surprises). Although 1998 is already at the end of the decade marked by acquatic perfumes, in Déclaration Ellena seems to borrow the crystalline and lasting effect of its aromas evolving it into a more mineral and woody direction - that he would continue to work under another perspective in Terre d'Hermès.

Certainly largely responsible for this crystalline, durable, mineral and woody effect is a synthetic that we know well and that often appears in almost everything you can smell: Iso E Super. It works sort of like a lamp and then differs from a natural essential oil, which in high doses can work (even more for wood) as a sun that when too close can blind the rest in which he projects his light. Iso E Super doesn't do that; its light spreads and blends with the environment, illuminating the soft tone of musks, the earthy nuance and light leather tones of iris accord and the slightly chypre oakmoss effect. It also perfectly complements the carnal touch of cumin and citrus notes that reminds you of lemon.

Like a machine of a polished design and without much exaggeration, just touches of each of the essences are lit around the Iso E Super. It thus creates a fragrant aura, mature and remains projecting for a long time on the skin (and a longer time still in the fabric). It certainly helped bring the contemporary woody style that we see arising in creations like Terre, Encre Noire, St Dupont Pour Homme. It was also a first step towards the transformation of the classical style of Cartier perfume for a contemporary elegance that has been well explored in the hands of the perfumer Mathilde Laurent. Its statement today certainly is a big legacy.

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