1 de fev. de 2016

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Rendez-Vous, Zeitgeist 55 and Jitterbug - Fragrance Reviews

More than a perfurmer and artist, Dawn also shows to be  historian for the concepts she proposes. You can see that her creations are not merely inspired by historical moments and characters, they actually reflect the trying to reproduce types of perfumes that were successful in the past. What feels, however, is a concern for harmony and, where possible, modernization of the idea, so that it has a vintage aura that also sounds new  and even avant-garde;  by rescuing past compositions as reviewed below Dawn brings something different for our time.

Rendez-Vous: recent launch of the brand, it is a retro composition of the period where the animalic perfume reigned supreme in perfumery. Dawn proposed here to use a mix of animalic notes, so that none of them protrudes. At first they give an almost fecal aroma and indole composition, but as time passes it softens and evolves into a smell through leather, incense and soft musk. There is a discreet floral bouquet, slightly sweet and narcotic and this works to round and tame the wildest part of the composition. The result shows well refined and interesting in the skin past the initial moment.

Zeitgeist 55: as well as Rendez-Vous, Zeitgeist also has a retro inspiration and an animalic aspect, but this time referred to the leather aroma, as the scenario this time are the aromas of leather jackets, James Dean and Knize 10, his leather favorite scent. There is something in the Zeitgeist that oscillates between modern and classic; this is due to the various facets of leather, which sometime is shown closer to the suede and with more plastic nuances and at other times looks pretty classic, a polished leather smell, smoked and steeped in animalic scents. There are other touches that bring the rubberized black leather aroma to modern times, as the presence of musks which refer to current oud perfumes. It is a beautiful balancing act between historical inspiration and modern translation.

Jitterbug: with Jitterbug we went back to the 40s' and their glamorous, complex and also animalic scents. The difference from Rendez-Vous is that Jitterbug puts animalic essences now in an oriental, spicy and aldehydic context, something that brings me to a perfume that would come a decade later, the Estee Lauder Youth Dew. I can see an interesting contradiction here: the aroma despite getting dense, stuffy and incensed becomes velvety and with the animalic aspect very controlled. It's like cinnamon nuances, aldehydes, carnation, roses, benzoin and patchouli danced abstractly around the nose, starting with intensity and going to a closer rhythm of a waltz olfactory. It's a beautiful oriental that due to its dynamic can work well even in the hottest days.

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