9 de fev. de 2016

Santi Burgas LÔBITT and LÔJAZZ - Fragrance Reviews

As much as we have decades of progress and knowledge in perfumery, it is true that we still have a world full of unexplored concepts that can bring new interpretations to old ideas. And that's what sparked my interest when i got aware of the brand Santi Burgas, created by artist Santiago Burgas. He found inspiration in the ants and their complex communication system to create the basis for his first collection of perfumes. Ants utilize a complex system of related messages smells issued by them, which can be combined to form a new message.

Santiago has implemented this concept for each member of LÔANT Collection, creating perfumes that are meant to have meaning in itself or that can be harmonized with each other and so form new olfactory messages. I see that the layering approach / combination is not new in the world of perfumery, though it is more common to find it related, as in the perfums of Jo Malone, a simplified pyramid and specific aromas as a concept. Differential here is that Santi Burgas tries to keep the complexity of the pyramid but cutting on 3 different spots, with scents which thus favors the development of these different parts.

LÔBITT and LÔJAZZ are part of the creations that conveys top notes, usually composed of more volatile elements and passing the initial impression of the composition. I believe that these should have been more difficult to harmonize, whereas a perfume made predominantly of top notes tends to be intense right away and evaporate quickly, leaving little or nothing on the skin. However, to give the impression of perfumes passing the top of the communication they must be made with a good amount of volatile aromatic elements and therein lies the challenge of these creations.

From the two evaluated LÔBITT is the one with the greatest challenge in this sense, being composed almost exclusively of citrus. The message it passes is cheerful, refreshing and energizing, a perfect aroma for use after the bath or in the morning. Its smell brings me to a combination of juicy aroma of tangerines and oranges combined with the bitter and intense smell of petitgrain. The citrus, fresh, light and clean floral aroma of neroli works just supporting the more fruity part of the idea. I find it curious that the combination of citrus elements for a brief moment pass me the phenolic and rubbery smell of thyme without thyme listed among the aromas. LÔBITT ends up being more ephemeral, but lasting good for something citric and that seems to me quite natural. Its smell is very noticeable on the skin for 2 hours and then evolves into something quite discreet and musky. It seems perfect to be combined with other members of the kit.

LÔJAZZ already works more complex and dynamic despite being one of the creations proposed as a member of the top fragrances of the collection. Surely this is due to the profile chosen to be portrayed here, a mix of white flowers making a sensual and curvaceous communication from the point of view of the aromas. I see that in LÔJAZZ ionones play the role of violets and so provide a backdrop that is slightly powdery and clean at the same time, creating a soft feeling of soap that remains a good time on the skin. About this we have excellent quality flowers through a vibrant scent - the scent opens with an explosion of them, like a shower of various types of white petals. For me, the scent of jasmine is dominant, with its delicious fruity smell and its nuances that refer to orange blossom mingling with the most clean aroma and floral neroli. The Magnolia provides an interesting side-up, something a little citrus and suggesting a floral aroma that brings me the olive tree, like we had in the composition the presence olive flowers. Despite a certain retro air, LÔJAZZ seem modern and straightforward in its evolution and with a good duration in the skin.

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