16 de out. de 2016

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Vert Et Noir, Wasabi Shiso, Kaleidoscope - English Review

I think that it's hard to be creative in themes like Summer Scents, Colognes and Eau Fraiches. For summer we usually expect a lighter interpretation of a certain scent we might know and like and more or less the same can be said about Eau Fraiche versions, with the difference that with we might have more aquatic and ozonic compositions in Summer Scents than in Eau Fraiches. Colognes, on the other hand, are as old as the perfumery itself and it usually plays with well known elements - mainly citruses and their happy sparkling freshness, backed up by woody and musky aromas to provide to help it last on skin.

The 2016 trio of  Summer Eau Fraiche colognes made by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz seems to accept the challenge to add something creative into ideas we already know and like. From the indie perfumers, Dawn seems to be one of the most prolific ones and in a good way - she always seems to have ideas both new and old to add into her scents and owe us with their amazing smells. In this series i see that Dawn opted to add diferent intensites and nuances of green scents inside of well known ideas. Also, she plays with both classic and modern elements in order to achieve her visions here.

Let me start first with the one that surprised me with its theme and execution - Vert Et Noir. Do you imagine someone creating a scent inspired on a tennis ball? Well, that's exactly what inspired Dawn on this one after she was paying attention someday into her son playing and i was curious how this would translate into aroma itself. In my opinion, it's gorgeous and a surprise to see how ozonic and acquatic ideas can work so well here with a classic cologne structure. You have a main protagonism of galbanum which is mainly responsible for making the bridge between the green and noir - galbanum is an amazing resin that smells like fresh cut grass at the same time it has a more darker and resinous nuance. Galbanum here mingles very beautifully with acquatic and ozonic nuances, none of the overused. It conducts into a light neroli heart, bright and sparkling and very cologne. The base has a subtle vetiver woodiness closing the green idea into something more dry. My overall impression is that from the trio launched this is the most masculine oriented one.

Wasabi Shiso seems here to be the collection member that is most daring and avant-guard. Green aromas are not exactly easy to be worked, and one based on something so savory green and specific like wasabi is not the usual idea you will find on a fragrance. Imagine that paired with shiso leaves and then you have a very exotic composition. The result on skin is surprising, the opening is really able to capture the complex texture of wasabi - it's very green and leafy at the same time it seems to be minty and cool but also quite spicy. The classic cologne idea here seems to shift from neroli to lemons and the are able to carry the green leafyness of the wasabi outburst opening. The base has a more contemplative and discreet aspect - it seems to rely solely on indian sandalwood to provide a silky woody texture with some incense hints. Compared to Vert Et Noir it seems to be between something very modern and very classic.

From the trio, Kaleidoscope is the one i was expecting a more complex behaviour on skin, but i think that the synesthesia Dawn describes on her website is kind of lost on me. It plays two ideas/contrasts and play them very well - lemon and orange blossoms. It the most classic of the trio, bringing something modern into the idea by pairing the green lemon opening with some fruity spiciness comming from pink peppers. When you think it'll develop into a lemon direction like Wasabi Shiso the scent does a shift and a very good orange blossom accords starts to take place on skin. It smells like the contrast of biterness and sweetness of orange flowers but it gives more emphasis on the green aspects that are not usually highlighted. The orange blossom part seems to be very longlasting, noticeable in the drydown and the musky woody base is here merely to support it instead of showing up. It ends my journey throughout the trio as kind of recap of why those cologne scents are so popular and alluring - they really give us a pleasant scentation. Overall, the trio is very solid and interesting and the ideas seems to be kind of connected, so i bet that layering them will highlight aspects of each one that are not easily noticed. Another solid entry into Dawn collection.