14 de dez. de 2016

Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina and Smeraldo - Fragrance Reviews

As i progress my fragrance wearing experience over Sylvaine Delacourte creations one thing becomes pretty clear to me, which is that the sense of collection here was not merely used as an excuse to targe the most diversified public as possible. There is an identity constructed around the recurrent theme of white musks, which also divide the stage with an overall powdery impression the permeates the creations. The perfumes seems to have similar facets, but at the same time each one shows a different personality on skin.

The second one tested is certainly one of my favorites so far, the gorgeous and harmonious iris theme of Florentina. As with Dovana, Sylvaine was inspired by a childhood memory and this time is from a scented talcuum powder. This lead to a superb interpretation of the precious iris root, one that does not go straight to its sweet powdery notes. Floretina stights bright, a little bit lemony and tart, with discreet almond nuances. Then it shows the richness of the iris note and an amazing spicy floral aroma, a carnation accord that seems to evoke honey, cloves, and brown sugar. At a second moment, Florentina reveals the more woody facets of the iris personality, which are cleverly combined with a creamy sandalwood impression. Finally, you can notice a more grassy woody aroma contrasting with the creamy sandalwood and iris. Florentina seems delicate and simple, but it's harmonious, longlasting and full of small details.

The third one tested, Smeraldo, is in harmony with the others in the collection and while i do appreciate the powdery, creamy and buttery sensation that permeates the line I hoped this creation to have more of the contrast and shock from the musks and the fresh notes, as proposed in its concept. Smeraldo starts sligthly minty, green and aniseed and it's clearly perceptible a delicate lily accord, which can be noticed in others from this collection. The evolution is less powdery and spicy than Florentina and more flowerly, leading to base that seems to differ by a slightly earthy interpretation of the woody musky base of the collection, as if there is some bitter chocolate patchouli aroma carefuly balanced with the other elements. Smeraldo is certainly sophisticated and has a similar performance to the other ones, but it could have a more distinct element in its green fresh notes.