18 de jun. de 2017

Sultan Pasha - Violet Noyee, Al Hareem, Jardin d'Borneo White Lily, Sohan d'Iris, Reve Narcotique - Brief Reviews

Image by Fragrantica.com

I stopped doing my Sultan Pasha discovery process because i wasn't finding time to properly review those beauties. I have wore some of them which unfortunately i only have now a faded memory of their smells. What i do remember is that all of them were pleasant surprises, scents that while being either compact or expansive showed coherence and a focus on the design and the feelings being evoked. So, recovering from my memories, here it goes:

Violet Noyeee: this one seems intrinsically linked with Irisoir to me, like they are two parts of the same portrait, a landscape of irises, yellow flowers and botanical specimens that liberate an aniseed aroma. I can see why some relate it with Apres Londee, the powdery anisic theme is quite similar, but here it seems shifted more into the leafy side of violet than the powdery ionone aspect. It behave more like a skinscent on me.

Al Hareem
: this is top notch oud and if you like straight oud compositions this is a great choice. For me it possesses that animalic, greasy and barnyard oud aroma that i associate with expensive ouds. But the difference is that other notes are used here to soften the hard edges and make the experience more pleasant but still faifhtful to the original theme; it's like the oud is treated like a stone that was polished and given a good base to sit and shine.

Jardin d'Borneo White Lily: i don't remember very well the scent of this one, but i do remember of feeling pure lust like entering a garden of white flowers in summer. My memories says that it captures the honey pollen aura of white flowers that i love so much on summer days, but at the same time it seems to balance it with some citrus and spice fresh touches from what i remember. I think i got a really good gardenia note on this, but it might be my memory playing tricks on me.

Sohan d'Iris
: this scent is all about playing with the buttery grey aspect of Iris, giving it a resinous gourmand theme to avoid it sounding melancholic and too austere. A good quality orris butter is not exactly an easy material, it possesses a dirty vegetal aspect that can be overwhelming into a composition, but it's not the case here. It smells confortable, slightly incensed, sweet and buttery in all the right proportions.

Reve Narcotique
: it is interesting to know that this scent was inspired by Opium because it seems to evoque more the emotions and the olfactive shape of opium without seeing like a descendant of it. Reve Narcotique is all about spices, plenty of clove or rose, but with more flowers than Opium and a sweetness that smells more modern to me. The base seem to be all about precious woods, incense and resins. An intersting mix of ancient aura with something that seems a little bit more modern to me.