15 de nov. de 2017

Le Jardin Retrouvé Verveine d'Été,Rose Trocadero, Tubéreuse Trianon e Sandalwood Sacré - Fragrance Reviews

There are two things that came to mind as I went through my second stage of using and understanding the perfumes of Le Jardin Retrouvé. They are questions that end up appearing not only by the perfumes themselves, but by the value proposition that the brand creates.

The first of these is something related to the positioning of the brand in the search for quality ingredients. Does the current perception of consumer quality really align with this? I realize that a part of the market sees quality not because of the coherence of the aroma itself or the details, but because of the technical requirements: if a perfume does not project intensely and lasts many hours on the skin, it has not the expected quality. These are challenges that the brand faces or will face in some of its compositions, which seem delicate watercolors.

The second is how the market seems to be cyclical in relation to the concepts in perfumery creation. Think of such creations from a time when the market was dominated by perfumes that created gigantic concepts (opium, poison, kouros, among others) and compared with the emphasis on a more direct design that emphasizes and works the richness of a note. And today, this has returned to be a trend, which puts Jardin Retrouvé in a curious position where it sounds both classic and modern in its approach. It is a position that the brand can further explore in the future if it decides to go beyond its historical catalog.

It is interesting that you don't have  more brands exploring perfumes with the theme of Verveine, a herbal citrus concept that besides conveying a freshness that many appreciate passes a sophistication that does not sound tired. Of the 3 most citrus offerings of the brand, Verveine is the one that has a slightly more masculine aura and the one with the best performance on the skin. The fragrance opens with a delicious juicy lemon scent and the nuances fenne nuances in verbena, complete with aromatic basil touches and mentholated eucalyptus ones. It is a delightful, relatively complex freshness that evolves into a base that blends the woody, grassy scent of vetiver with a moist, earthy touch of oak moss. In composition style, Verveine d'Été also makes me think of a classic French brand, Guerlain, and could be a brand launch in its colognes line.

Rose Trocadéro is one of the perfumes that seems indirectly positioned more for the female audience given its floral and delicate aroma of roses. It is another case where the contrast between classic and modern is very evident in my opinion: although the theme of the roses chosen here is closer to the classic perfumery, the execution perfectly matches the current moment that seeks a flower execution that exalts its freshness and delicacy. The composition actually smells Rosa Centifollia to me, showing the more dewy, satiny and green side of the rose. There is a fruity touch of blackcurrant that works on two levels: at first it imparts a sweet aroma that breaks part of the sour side of the rose and in a second it adds a fruity side more acid and green. The use of the clove ends up being another accessory, complementing the spicy nuances that we can find in the rose and creating a harmony with the berry touch. As in many modern perfumes, the base is made more to hold the opening and evolution and ends up becoming almost transparent, a second skin musk that invites a reapplication so that we return to feel the floral and fruity delicacy of the composition.

Of all the perfumes relaunched by the brand one of the closest to the themes of the decade in which Le Jardin Retrouvé's business has developed is Tubéreuse Trianon. During the 80's the Tuberose theme was well explored in creations that gave it a gigantic and neon structural aspect and no matter how Tubereuse Trianon goes along this grandiose line there is greater care with the balance and the roughness that a classic tuberose accord can pass. The narcotic aroma of the flower is recreated by a juxtaposition of the fruity and orange blossom tones of jasmine sambac with the white and complex floral aroma of the ylang, complemented by the green nuances of the tuberose itself. Curiously, the fruity look of the composition seems to emerge after the narcotic tone gives a smoother, imparting a raspberry sweetness that seems to end up on a base that also depends primarily on a musk second skin scent but which offers a light woody touch together.

There is a scent that escapes the minimalist theme that permeates all the perfumes of the collection, including the most intense ones like Tubéreuse Trianon and Cuir de Russie. Here we return to the 80s with Sandalwood Sacré in a perfume full of layers to be unfolded. At first this may seem contradictory to the theme of a perfume that evokes the ambience of a Buddhist temple, but the first impression is precisely that of an aroma of a spiritual incense, permeated by the aroma of a rich floral bouquet. Here there is a mix of energies, yan and yang, where the sacred incense mixes with a carnal touch of white flowers that even show their most indolent side in the midst of the seriousness of the composition. There are nuances of leather, iris and violet in a secondary way and for a third time I find myself thinking again of a Chanel creation. After the zen-maximalist impact of the opening, Sandalwood Sacre brings reminds me of something I did not imagine I would like but I appreciated a lot, a less powdery and amore cleaner and direct Antaeus version. The sandalwood eventually appears, finishing the composition with a sober woody tone, slightly creamy and of great quality. Challenging at first but a highlight on the line.