30 de dez. de 2017

2017 Retrospective - Part I

And we are again closing another year and another cycle. 2017 has certainly been a turbulent, troubled year in the World and personally it has been a very busy year for me. In December as you may have seen the blog was practically not updated and soon there will be a massive update with several reviews that were written and that i didn't had time to post. But like every year, there are always good and bad times and it is cool to do a retrospective to find the high points and move on.

Instead of making a best of list I decided to do a retrospective of the year in the blog, highlighting the most interesting moments of what happened here. There is something very unfair in building lists when trying to evaluate something as subjective as a perfume, with the risk of committing injustices in the process. So the choice below does not have a definite order, no perfume is better than the other, all are good creations from new and consecrated brands that deliver what they promise and that stood out for what a perfume has to stand out: the aroma. To read the perfume evaluation, just click on the name.

Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve

The french maison Atelier des Ors was a great surprise in 2016 with its concept that combines luxury, poetry in perfumes impeccable in aroma and presentation. In 2017 the brand continued the excellent work on Iris Fauve, a composition that extracts the best from the iris and adds a warm and unexpected touch of cinnamon to the idea.

Gri Gri Sideshow

If I were to choose one of the most innovative perfumes that I tried this year, Sideshow would take the award without having to think about it too much. Anaïs Biguine explores an interesting concept in perfumes associated with the history of tattooing over time. Sideshow is inspired by a period where tattoos were seen as part of a show of "freaks" and it creates an aura where fruity, sugary notes and animalish and leathery aromas make an unusual and intriguing harmony.

Zoologist Perfumes Civet

It has already become part of the annual routine to await the releases of Zoologist Perfumes. Victor Wong has built a beautiful universe where animals come to life in the hands of talented perfumers. And in Civet Victor and the perfumer Shelley Waddington  produce one of the best of the brand, a chypre with animalic nuances and that richly honors the golden times of the perfumery.

Art de Parfum Excentrique Moi

For those who seek a perfumery that has a concern with nature while not neglecting the luxury and contemporaneity of aromas, Art de Parfum is a brand worth exploring, with a mix of creations that goes from the very pleasant to the most exotic, which is the case of Excentrique Moi. One of Ruta's favorites, owner of the brand, is a creation that explores a more exotic side of a spicy tea in contrast to a beautiful patchouli base.

Orto Parisi Seminalis

The first project of the perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri never pleased me, developing in Nasomatto perfumes that for me had more concept than substance and sounded aggressive without refinement. So it was a great surprise get to know his Orto Parisi project, which puts the body as a garden and cultivates odors related to it. Seminalis perfectly personifies this proposal with a scent of skin that explores the different nuances that such a concept can elicit, going from the clean to the dirty, from the tender to the erotic.

DSH Perfumes Dark Moon

Launched during the year-end festivities of 2016, Dark Moon came into my hands during 2017 and quickly entered my favorite selection of the prolific artist and perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Its idea came from a questioning I made in a facebook group many years ago: could it be possible to make a classic chypre with a chocolate gourmand note? Dawn achieves this magnificently by exploring the darker, more boozy side of the cocoa absolute in a complex, warm and addictive spicy chypre structure.

Baruti Chai

In 2017 I finally had a chance to get acquainted with one of the perfumes from indie Baruti, a brand that has recently stood out among perfume lovers in virtual groups. In Chai the perfumer Spyros comments that the composition was created first by the formula and then fitting a concept in it, with the objective of creating a spicy perfume that escaped the clichés. This is masterfully achieved in a composition that explores the nuances of black tea amidst the aroma of hot and cold spices, rose and a faint hint of brown sugar. It's a scent that made me want to know more about the house since it is so good.

Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano VIII

  The italian Bottega Veneta debuted with its exclusive perfumery collection at a time when the market is already almost saturated with such a product. That would be a problem if the brand had not developed a concept that escapes the clichés of the exaltation of the nobility of materials. Instead, the brand explores a minimalism of luxury in the formula exalting elements of its Italian roots. In VIII, the brand turns to the orange blossom in a rich, purist way, capturing the concept by the aroma of leaves, fruits, tree and even the bark. A case of ultra-realism with an essence whose complexity of nuances is perfect for this.

Dior Collection Privee Sakura

Curiously in 2017 the Dior maison created a set of 10 perfumes for its Collection Privee of which there was no online disclosure, much less official photos. A kind of exclusive collection for the Paris store, the new members of the Collection Privee explore perfumes from a springtime and delicate point of view. A highlight among them was Sakura, a scent that explores the odorless cherry blossom giving it a floral scent with fruity cherry nuances, something that is very difficult to find in this theme.

Chanel Gabrielle

For some important maisons 2017 was the year to create new pillars in the feminine perfumery and speak with a new younger audience. Although Gabrielle is not one of the favorites among the experts in this area, personally it was the creation that did it best without giving up the DNA of the brand. Gabrielle interprets Chanel's classic multifaceted floral and aldehyde bouquet under a delicate and luminous aura, with nuances that refer to another modern classic of the brand, Chance. It is a creation that only reveals its delicate nuances with time and intimacy with the perfume.