8 de fev. de 2019

Olibere Precious Collection Dangerous Rose, Chemical Love - Fragrance Reviews (English version)

Although in some moments the new perfumes of the Precious Collection leveas a little to desire in relation to the way they communicate their intentions to the public, the fact is that the perfumes themselves are so strong that this pulls the final evaluation up. They are strong in concentration, extracts as people expect when talking about pure parfum: perfumes that last a long time and that depending on the amount applied do not even come out with bath. But they are not only technically strong, the compositions prove to be very well built, intense without being tiresome and exploring known paths without being banal. The new trio is certainly among the best creations of Luca Maffei, who has proved to be a great talent in the niche and exclusive perfumery scene.

Dangerous Rose is inspired by the classic film Interview with Vampire and this already creates great expectations regarding the rose that the perfume will deliver. The idea is an enigmatic beauty, luminous and somber and we already know that the blood red rose that appears in the advertising of the perfume is not only a decorative element. Dangerous rose delivers a rose in the style of an Arabian perfumery, loaded with incense, spices, with nuances of honey and tobacco. The output is intriguing, a dry spicy incense scent that for some moments brings me to a more noble version of the aroma of the classic brazillian Phebo soap. Soon afterwards the more licorious aroma of the rose begins to become evident in contrast to a patchouli wrapped in amber. The way they are balanced judiciously creates the light and dark aspect of the fragrance and lasts practically all day on the skin.

Chemical Love is to me from the point of view of the concept the weakest perfume in the collection. The perfume has a bold inspiration in the film Scarface and certainly the female figure who is honored here is Elvira Hancock, wife of Tony Montana and addicted to Cocaine. The perfume looks at this idea by including a Cocaine accord in the composition but does not seem to take the theme in depth, merely creating a floral musk that ends up sounding a little artificial as the name seems to suggest. Still, it is an excellent artificial floral: a narcotic and even a little animalic ylang is surrounded by a more commercial fruity aroma, more evident on the scent strip than on the skin. As the most intoxicating floral aspect of the perfume passes it gains woody contours and gets warm and creamy and just like the others in the collection lasts a lifetime on the skin.

From the proposed trilogy of perfumes Chemical Love is the only one that seems to go more in a feminine than unisex direction and I would say that one of the dangers of the brand when exploring so strongly the theme of its heroines in the visual part of the fragrances is to end limiting the audience that will be interested and test the compositions. My advice is to ignore this part of the project and go straight to the perfumes, which will amaze and greatly please those who are looking for powerful and well made creations.